26

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

Yeah don't waste time with wikipedia here m8.  Tis no reliable ancient engineering manual.

The name "Wackopedia" is  not by chance. Don't get me started on Wackopedia and history & politics ...

Also don't always rely on older research.  Make the equipment as close as possible to reliable specs (as much as possible) and then do your own testing.

I will do. Usually, I trust my instincts.
In a "guide rail" styled weapon like the tong-ah, a projectile needs to have at least two stable support points on each side of the COG.
And in case of the tong-ah, it should be the tip and the nock. This was not the case, so I better refrained from shooting ...
The improved arrows are in the works, I removed the windings on the front of the fletching, and thicken the diameter near the nock.

27

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

geoarcher wrote:
ragnar wrote:

Not sure if I rework them, or make new one's. From the link to Freddy's shop, it looks like the nock region.....


If you have uncertainty here but don't want to put out the money for the real deal, it may be wise to consult with the guys over at ATARN that actually make this stuff and have taken measurements from museums and what not in order to replicate traditional arrows like these quite well.

Not worth potentially injuring yourself here m8.

I will definitely do this. Even the picture from Freddy's shop page helped me a lot.

When about trying to shoot my tong-ah, I thought a while about it, and come up with some further questions and comments.

The first issue - what arrowheads were used for pyeonjeons in a historical context, i.e. for military use ?
The rail practically limits the size and diameter, a proper war-type broadhead would IMHO be impractical or very dangerous to shoot.
I can imagine pyeonjeons for military use had bodkin-like tips, or similar to contemporary field tips.

Second, the "Pyeonjeon" Wikipedia entry contains some gross errors.
It states for instance:
"Their higher speed and aerodynamic efficiency means they penetrate armour better at range."
"Aerodynamic efficiency" basically refers to drag, which is not much different from a longer, normal-sized arrow.
The drag coefficient is determined by cross sectional area and fletching size, not by length along the flight axis.
"...they penetrate armour better at range" The opposite is true. Penetration is related to kinetic momentum (mass x velocity), see below.

"Further more, the short bolts had longer range and flatter trajectory with a faster velocity and penetrating power."
The first part is true, initial velocity is higher, resulting in a flatter trajectory.
However, I have an issue with both grammar and proposition of the last part.
Filling the implicit ellipsis, it would say "... with a faster penetrating power.", which is an abstruse wording.
But even worse, it is untrue, physically incorrect.
Assuming normal sized and short arrows (pyeonjeon) are shot from the same bow, the initial kinetic energy depends on the bow only.
And assuming ideal or very high efficiency of the bow, the same kinetic energy is transferred initially into both arrow.
Therefore, the shorter and lighter pyeonjeon will start out significantly faster.
But since drag depends on cross sectional area, drag coefficient and velocity (actually velocity squared), the velocity of a pyeonjeon will drop much faster then those of a normal arrow.
Penetration OTOH is proportional to kinetic momentum (mass x velocity), not kinetic energy - see Ed Ashby's work on arrow lethality.
Combined with the significant drop in velocity, a pyeonjeon's penetration beyond the range of a normal arrow (say, 200m) is much less.
I suppose it might not even have penetrated thick armour (of elite warriors like samurai) at all.
In tactical terms, it extends the effective range of archers significantly, and was useful against unarmoured or lightly armoured enemies.
Historical texts about Ottoman archery describe this explicitly. They used the majra (tong-ah) to harass enemy troops beyond the range of enemy archers, to disrupt their formation and attacks.
The Manchus and Englishmen had good reasons to use 1500 .. 2000gn arrows against heavily armoured opponents.

The post got a bit long, hope you don't mind ...

28

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

After this thread, and the wonderful weather here at the weekend, I felt the urge to try my tong-ah as well.
Which didn't work out so well, I just managed one shot.
Whith the other tries, the arrow tip was sticking out, and I couln't manage to keep it in the 'rail'. That didn't feel safe to me, and stopped.
Which makes me believe my arrows are not appropriate. The have a flat nock (same diameter as the shaft) quite thick winding at the start of the fletching - which is only appropriate for full length arrows.
Not sure if I rework them, or make new one's. From the link to Freddy's shop, it looks like the nock region is slightly thicker, and the fletchings have no windings. This way, the arrows should be flush when pressed slightly with the index finger against the nock region.

My single shot was actually not so bad, I hit the 10 ring of a 1,2m FITA target face at 10m (11yds).

29

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

The Hyoshi / Whistling Arrow.  Check the link a few above I posted.

Right. I have seen it, but didn't notice the price ...
I would have expected a platinum-plated gold head for that money  big_smile.


Which quite frankly seems a bit excessive as well in terms of price for what the item actually is.
Especially if its by the piece.

Which kept me from stocking up on such arrow heads. I would rather use a field tip for a tenth of the price, and use a ping pong ball or Kinder egg.
But OTOH, compare it to typical bow hunter equipment. Mechanical arrowheads (unfolding on impact) for 10..20$ each, on carbon shafts for typically 10..15$ each, and shot from a 1k$ (compound) bow.

30

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

And if you don't want to shell out 235 dollars for one whistling arrow here is a cheap alternative:
https://ottomanbows.blogspot.com/2012/0 … orant.html

Don't know what the 235$ refer to, but that's a hefty price ...
I think I have seen how-to-guides similar to the linked one, one even used a Kinder egg.
Here in Europe, many archery shops sell whistling arrowheads for about 5..6$ - which would be my preferred alternative.

31

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

You can always set up 'soft targets' at a range which I'd sometimes do unless your range/club is strict or limited here.  However I usually prefer to shoot all my bows on private property at targets that are appropriate.  Regardless, arrows break.

I have this opportunity at my parent's home, which I am rarely able to visit. I shoot sometimes in the garage, merely as technique training.
My club does not forbid tong-ah shooting - they don't know about it, actually.
I tried once with appropriately shortened wood arrows. Because I had been struggling with technique anyway, the results were quite mixed.
Would be interesting to know if one could shoot 3D tournaments with it. Some instinctive classes (like longbow or primitive bow) are tightly regulated - wood arrows only, no facewalking, no stringwalking, only mediterranean release. If there is a horsebow class at all, the only constraint are wood arrows. Tong-ah and pyunjun are virtually unknown in the European 3D scene.

32

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

Arrows break all the time.  Regardless of type or make.  Period.  'Historical replicas' or probably better terminology in this case, traditionally made things, are never cheap and are hardly 'everyday products' in any sense.

The mantra repeated at most archery ranges I've ever been to: don't fall in love with your ammo.

That's for sure.
Working with traditional materials and methods (like sinew) surely justifies the price. Only, I would not shoot this particular arrows on a range, whith a good chance to break it. Just like the military does not go into exercise/battle with dress uniforms.
I would make everyday arrows from modern materials for about a tenth of the costs.
Which do not look that nice, admittely, but don't move me to tears when breaking ...

Which is my view - I'm shooting for myself, basically. Still the only one in the club doing thumb draw, let alone KTBs.
I'm doing some 3D competitions occasianlly with separate "horsebow" class, to hook up other thumb archers.
Most of them shooting bows from Hungarian bowyers, with Vegh domination locally.

33

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

Still confused by the price - 50$ is what I expect for a well-made historical replica, not for a "everyday" product.

However, you can actually send them back to Japan and have the fletcher repair the arrow.  Not so much in Gungdo

.
That sounds rather like the latter...

34

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

At that price, I would have been disappointed, too ...
I had used shortened wood arrows for my experiments, left-over one's for low draw weight bow.
The results were quite mixed, because at that time, I struggling with my technique.

35

(15 replies, posted in Bows)

Yes, would be nice if someone knowledgable could shed some light on it.

Flight shooting is something that seems to exist in older times so long as you have a noblitiy/upper-class that wanted something leisurely to do.

Except for the Ottomans, I know no other culture that engaged in flight shooting. And considering that fact that archery was and is about hitting a target, the archery-related recreational pursuits reflected that. Most competitions were rather precision related. And arrow weights below 200 grain don't imply any military significance.
But the fact remains, the traditional Korean bow is one of the very few historical designs that allow for such an endeavor with similar results, and without breaking at this tiny gpp ratios.

Unfortunately I depend on translations for historical research - the fundamentally different language/script provide a high entrance barrier ...

36

(15 replies, posted in Bows)

geoarcher wrote:

But in actuality its more of a flight bow rather than one used in combat?

Did Koreans engage in a kind of flight shooting at that time, comparable to Ottomans ?
Or was it just comparatively speaking ?

37

(5 replies, posted in Accessories)

Do many people use a Ggakji bohodae?  Is that something I, as a newbie, should look into?

I would say, that depends on you.
I build myself a leather protection for the thumb from a cheap leather working clove.
It looks very similar to the thumb-part of said Ggakji bohodae, and I do quite well with it.

Having tried several solid thumb rings, I never came to like them.
I just need the specific pressure feeling, and feedback.

38

(65 replies, posted in Bows)

And let's add that some people here had real-life experience with some of the advertized bows, and experienced censorship on the YT channel.
As geoarcher said, details are in this thread.

I for one like the part of bringing otherwise "obscure" bowmakers to my attention. The due diligence is everone's own responsibility.
Caveat emptor.

39

(3 replies, posted in Bows)

I have some experience with KTBs, albeit not sure what is meant with I and II. They use to be carbon/wood/carbon laminate bows, and as such very litte susceptible to climate (moisture, temperature) under normal circumstances. I have another wood/glass laminated horsebow that consistently and reversibly fails at high temperatures (>25°C).
Freddie's KTBs are quite robust and IMHO a very good value for money. The rest comes down to personal preferences, experiences, and aspirations.

I logged in again, and tried to view the image by clicking on the link in my second post, which worked for me.
I'm still baffled by the ... bit strange method of including images.
Upload files first, to get them in a list below the message text. Then drag those symbols to the post. That's at least what I did.

Anyway, a verbal description.
Index finger and ring finger form a (very) deep hook around the string, below the arrow. Seems it is hooked into the second joint, not the first one like with the mediterranean style.
The thumb is pressed slightly against the arrow, parallel to it.
Archery plays a very minor part in the movie, so I suspect it is negligence of the filming crew.

The link i gave in my last post supposedly works, at least it does for me.
Still a bit confused how image uploads work.

I think mine. Just couldn't manage to upload the image...
Trying a drag&drop from a seemingly successful upload:

http://www.koreanarchery.org/punbb/misc … r=1805t889

I recently watched said Korean movie (The King And The Clown). In Korean language, and I didn't understand one word, honestly.
Focussing on the images, I noticed the following draw I never came across until now - see the appended image.

Is this drawing style traditional, or just a slip of the film makers ?

44

(3 replies, posted in Bows)

1) Check with manufacturer to see if SMG string is an appropriate replacement.

I would do that especially.
Not sure if the distance between neck of the string nock and the string pad is the same for the Taegeuk and the SMG.
Differences here would require different string loop sizes.

45

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

For comparison, arrows like that in Kyudo would cost anywhere from 2-9 times as much.

I think I heard of that, too.
But still having a hard time to understand the pricing. There seem to be many people with unlimited financial ressources ... smile

BTW, a club fellow of mine recently showed me photos of replicas of Japanese ceremonial arrows he made. I had organized the bamboo shafts for him. The arrowheads where very elaborate, and in the same pricing ball park.
Perhaps I can get some photos from him...

46

(5 replies, posted in Bows)

Interesting.

Indeed, but a bit above my budget for such a bow.

... specifications include fiberglass in addition to horn among wood and other elements.  No sinew to be found.

It would be interesting to know where the fiberglass is located.
BTW, I remember several real horn/sinew bow offers here in Europe, between 1500 ... 5000€. Not quite Korean, but very similar.
Being on another archery forum with hobby bowyers (successfully) building horn/sinew bows and recalling their build-along descriptions, I'm a bit suspicious of the "authenticity" of said Freddie's bow...
Sinew preparation is a tedious process, and glue drying takes weeks in each step.

47

(45 replies, posted in Arrows)

The price suggests these arrows actually have "gold tips" ...

48

(65 replies, posted in Bows)

Returning more towards the subject of this thread, I just realized what I see as a positive for Armin: he doesn't demo bows at an unnecessarily heavy draw weight.

I guess it would be obvious otherwise, and look ridiculous. I think I've seen YT videos with kids/teens frantically trying to pull a heavy bow ...
And I believe to remember Armin giving sensible recommendations regarding draw weights.

I was referring to the unbroken traditions of Kyudo and Gungdo regarding draw weight for appropriate development and tutelage within these arts.  Which are of course more relevant to this forum.

Not sure if it had been brought up here, but almost no reviews of KTBs, except for the Black Shadow. I remember no logical explanation for his "dislike" of this bows. He shoots turkish bows of similar length and weight, and draws other bows to 32" and more.

49

(65 replies, posted in Bows)

Ergo, I am not the least bit surprised to hear what you are reporting about that industry from a YT perspective.

I like compound shooting because I need to slow down and concentrate - even more then with a KTB. Getting and keeping the pin on the target and release clean is not as easy as it looks. Some things are the same - bow grip, backtension, and drawlength / draw hand position. So I think shooting compound supports my thumb shooting as well.
My compound is (supposedly) designed to hold up at least 20 years, and the company is known to still produce spare parts for it's old bows. We will see.

I find the real aspects of ego come out more in archery among those who obsess over things like draw weight in that they must shoot the heaviest pound bow out there in a means to show superiority over others in some manner.

Interestingly, draw weight is an important factor for the success of compounds. Because of it's almost rectangular draw weight vs. draw length curve, a compound stores almost twice the energy compared to  a recurve. And with letoff, you hold almost nothing. That allows a lot of guys to bowhunt which would not be able to control a recurve or longbow of the required energy.
But still, you see many reviewer struggling to pull back. Perhaps an ego thing, I have mine turned down to slightly about 52#, which I can draw comfortably in every position.

50

(65 replies, posted in Bows)

geoarcher wrote:

Returning back to the subject, YT videos really do feed well into what's known as GAS throughout a multiple of hobbies/interests:

Gear Acquisition Syndrome

Not a sure fire cure but a good way to fight it: cut down on YT review watching and go out there and shoot.

Exactly. Cited reviewer operates in a range very suspceptible to this syndrome. As said somewhere earlier, more than 95 per cent of compound bow "reviews" are blatant sales pushes. And compound manufacturers indulge deeply in planned obsolescence.
To explain his quote, there are no "crap" bows from established manufacturers, even cheap model use to shoot better then 90 per cent of the average shooter. Except some cheap & dangerous Chinese/Hongkong rip-offs.
Spending more money has no positive effect on the scores, only on the ego. Like with cars, for example. But that is another deep (mine) field...