26

(1 replies, posted in General Interest)

WarBow wrote:

Hi All,

I haven't been active in archery for a couple of years.  Recently I have acquired an interest in cooking and carbon steel kitchen knives.  Does anyone have experience with South Korean made carbon steel knives?  I have found quite a few vendors selling on Ebay.  Is the steel hard like Japanese white and blue steel?

Hmmm... I'm not sure.  The only kitchen knives I have (here in Korea) are ones my wife's sister brought from Germany...

27

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

Regarding a nocking point, Koreans will usually just serve a little dental floss (or similar) at that point.  I sometimes go over it with a marker, just so it's obvious...

28

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

The string is FastFlight...  (TBH, I'm not exactly sure of the serving)

29

(2 replies, posted in Bows)

RolldyLee wrote:

If you remember my case from last year, I am lefty and received a bow that was tilted to left. If it (which I suspect is YMG) truly came straight, shouldn't it have been tilted to the right? He also told me that he doesn't put any tilt on the limbs when I got that bow, which proved to be false.

I am little surprised that you came to this conclusion, because I also heard from several other people about the 'Korean tiller'. I'd still be interested in hearing more about this though.

I believe the "Korean tiller" idea came from SMG, which I have heard from others does put in that "feature".  For a long time, I erroneously also attributed it to YMG.  In the end, from what I can tell, it wasn't "Korean tiller" or a twisted limb, but archer's form that was causing the issue.  Recently, I received a bow back from someone who felt the limb was turned, but when I checked it out, it was perfectly straight.

30

(1 replies, posted in Bows)

It shouldn't be a problem, Arto...

31

(2 replies, posted in Bows)

Dear Friends,

Even those of us who have been practicing Korean traditional archery for decades--who are considered "experts" in our area--can make mistakes.  Evidently, I have been making one for years.

Many, many years ago, a Korean bowyer told me that bows used in KTA in Korea have a slight limb bend towards the arrow side, which I came to call the Korean tiller.  I have always considered that to be the way it was, and have told others the same, and I had understood that bows I shipped internationally would not have that feature.  When I had a customer tell me that his bow limb tilted to one side, I thought to myself, "Hmmm...  I guess I must have sent a domestic bow with the "Korean tiller" by mistake", even though I check each bow, draw it back (sometimes, with the heavier bows, the draw isn't that much), and make sure everything is straight.  So, I asked my wife--who does all my ordering for me--to please ask the bowyer to make sure the limbs don't have the Korean tiller.  She called and said as much to him, to which he was very surprised, and a bit peeved.  Needless to say, my wife was less-than-happy with me for sending her on what may have been a fool's errand...

The bowyer told her there is no such thing with the bows he makes.  All bows have straight limbs, and that any issue with a bend to one side is because of the archer and not the bow.  Again, as I check the bows before they ship out, and they all draw back straight for me, I have to agree. 

So, I wish to set the record straight, apologize for propagating what turned out to be not correct. 

There is no such thing in Korean laminated bows as a Korean tiller


Thomas

32

(0 replies, posted in Books)

Hi Friends,

In the new archery book review group on FB, I was a bit saddened to see nobody was reviewing my book (either the original paperback or newer ebook on Amazon).  If you have either one of them, I would truly appreciate your review.  Thanks!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/archery … w/?fref=nf

Thomas

33

(0 replies, posted in General Interest)

IF all goes well tonight, I will FB Live my annual New Year's Arrow shot at midnight Korean time (3pm GMT/10am ET). Stay tuned!

It looks very similar to a Korean "sugakji" thumb ring, which would be drawn differently from the typical teardrop-shaped "amgakji" thumb ring.  It is possible to make a good amgakji out of wood (my favorite one is made from date tree wood), but the shape/dimensions will need to be a lot more like amgakji made from other materials (like horn or phenolic).  I recommend looking around in our messages for the correct style and work on getting the shape/thickness changed on yours.

Hi.  Could you post pics of it?

Both are correct.  You will get slight differences, but it comes down to personal preference.

37

(17 replies, posted in Arrows)

Sorry, no, but maybe someone else has...

Not familiar with it...

39

(8 replies, posted in Arrows)

ragnar wrote:

If the points actually served a military purpose, they could be foreign as well, i.e. from a conflict.

BTW, some of my (superficial) knowledge of the history of Korean archery is found here:
http://www.manchuarchery.org/korean-vie … hu-archery

But I guess you knew already.

I tend to doubt it.  These were found on an island that was a Korean refuge, historically.  The only enemies that made it there were 19th century Western and Japanese (with modern firearms).

40

(8 replies, posted in Arrows)

ragnar wrote:

Any idea about the age of this points ?
Iron artifacts are usually not dateable, but perhaps by surrounding natural or cultural artifacts.

Had the Korean arrow head sizes and weights been standardized in former times ?

I could only guess that they are probably more than 150 years old (the time when military archery was still being practiced to any extent; it was done away with in 1894).  There were some points that were standardized, but I've never tried comparing these (yet).

41

(2 replies, posted in Technique)

geoarcher wrote:

So I've been studying Kyudo for about a year now and in this genre of archery you're told to open up the bow in a way that it's almost as if you don't have any arms at all although at the same time 2/3rds of the bow or pushing arm are utilized while only 1/3rd of the pulling/string arm are used.  A metaphor of 'drawing back the curtains is used'.  Energy is focused to your 'tandan' (lower core area) and all this is supposed to bring about a smooth draw and stable 'kai' (holding the bow in position). 

When I go back to some Korean/Gungdo videos it looks like sometimes the arms are used more here to open up the bow although I'm not completely sure.  I thought I came across text in the past that said the energy is focused to your core are as well to ensure stability.

So what in more detail, is the appropriate way to open up the Korean bow?  Is there (an) approach similar to how its specified in Kyudo to open up bow?

"Push the high mountain and pull the tiger's tail"  You push out on the bow (energy will be in the bottom of the grip, which is buried in the heel of the palm of the bow hand), while at the same time you draw the string.  Generally, the bow will be started to be drawn a little bit over the head (hence, the high mountain).

42

(8 replies, posted in Arrows)

ragnar wrote:

No idea about the original weights; the points both lost a lot from oxidation.

I thought so. But I supposed this points are similar to better preserved one's, perhaps in a museum.

From what I've seen, yes.

43

(1 replies, posted in Arrows)

geoarcher wrote:

I never bothered to ask this before but in some unbroken East Asian archery traditions, blunted heads are not utilized for the arrow.  In Gungdo, is the utilization of blunted heads preferred at the practice range due to the distance of the target?

It's more for the protection of the target.  As the arrow only needs to hit the target (which is covered with conveyor belt rubber), there is no need for a sharp point.

44

(8 replies, posted in Arrows)

ragnar wrote:

A bit corroded, but interesting.
The tang on the broadhead type (right) suggests it was used with bamboo shaft, right ?
At least for the bodkin type tip  I assume a military use.

Do you know the approximate weight of the original (uncorroded) tip ?
European medieval arrow heads for war used to have about 250 ... 400 gn, if I remember correctly.

I followed a discussion in a local forum, with guys building english warbows and arrows for "fun".
The bows had "only" 70 to 100#, and the arrows 1200 to 1500 gn.
For lack of historical armaments, they use decommisioned traffic signs for testing ...

Yeah, it would certainly have been a bamboo shaft.  Both were probably military.

No idea about the original weights; the points both lost a lot from oxidation.

45

(8 replies, posted in Arrows)

These are a couple iron arrow points I found on Ganghwa Island a few years ago while doing field research. The one on the left is a bodkin-type and the one on the right is edged.




http://koreanarchery.org/KoreanArrowPoints.jpg

46

(2 replies, posted in History)

wayfarer wrote:

Hey everyone, I am wondering if anyone knows where one could read or have access to historic reports of Korean archery in war or anything else about their bows, be it from Korea itself or opposing countries.

It is just something I would be interested in seeing or reading. I have only seen that which was posted on Peter Dekkers website showing what Korean's where stating about Manchu bows.

Thank you!

I have seen a smattering of things on the Annals of the Joseon Kings, but nothing substantial.

47

(15 replies, posted in Bows)

Pedro C wrote:
bluelake wrote:
Pedro C wrote:

would hide glue be good for birch bark?

It would probably work.  I know that my old horn bowyer friend used contact cement thinned with benzene (from what I remember), but a natural glue should be fine.

It might've been a culprit to his paralysis? I think I'd (hypothetically?) rather try thick hide glue after sizing with thin fish bladder or hide glue. I've heard good things about it. For synthetic, Titebond 2 or 3 would probably work well too.
But I don't think that would help with the cracking... maybe it could just be ignored, while continuing to apply... maybe tea seed oil. Olive oil will smell rancid after a while.

I've often wondered about that...  However, I'm going to guess a high sodium Korean diet didn't help.

48

(15 replies, posted in Bows)

Pedro C wrote:

would hide glue be good for birch bark?

It would probably work.  I know that my old horn bowyer friend used contact cement thinned with benzene (from what I remember), but a natural glue should be fine.

49

(5 replies, posted in Notices)

Pedro C wrote:

Test

Oh cool.

Ah... Pedro has not left the building...  big_smile

50

(5 replies, posted in Notices)

airfaewf032 wrote:

There should no longer be a problem with it cutting off quotes. However, I can't post from my other account. I answer the stopbot question but it keeps asking me, but it works on this account. I think it's also pun_stop_bots, but I don't see it in the list of 11 official extensions shown on the bottom of each page.

"The artist formerly known as Pedro..."  big_smile