Serving & nocking point strink?

I have a similar nocking point, but above.
In other words, I nock the arrow below the nocking points.
That allows me to put the arrow somewhere at the string (close below, to be more precise), push it up against the nocking point, and only then pull it fully on the string.
Advantage is, you can do it blindly, i.e. looking at the target, not the bow.

Regarding a nocking point, Koreans will usually just serve a little dental floss (or similar) at that point.  I sometimes go over it with a marker, just so it's obvious...

I follow this method for creating a nock point on the string:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXZYx1O … 0&t=0s

I had the same problem, and if you follow this man's video exactly you will have a nock point that is not too bulky but with just enough width to nock appropriately and comfortably.

I've seen this, ive given it a try, the issue is that my index finger that pushes my arrow into the bow doesnt keep enough force to hold the arrow onto the bow.

Ill give moving my hand down a bit more another shot. Might help with another issue im having.

No problem.  What exactly is the Korean method?

Oh I see.  Yeah that could get a little bulkier than needed for comfort sake.  I use this product meant for fletching but seems to work relatively well for establishing a nock point also:

https://www.3riversarchery.com/pure-silk-thread.html

It may not be that appropriate as I've never investigated this stuff further.  I just happened to have it lying around from the days when I used to make my own arrows and wrap them with threading.  If you follow the man's method exactly, it should stay on fairly well even without a dab of say Ducos Cement.

To try out other serving materials use your existing string. Count the number of strands first. Then serve an empty area with a material of your choice and test. If too thin, add a couple of extra strands alongside the existing string and serve-again. If too tight, try to estimate how many strands you have to take off.

I used 20 strands of fast flight plus and a single serving with BCY halo (.019" diameter) and it fits perfectly all western carbon plastic nocks.

I have some carbon arrows from Korea and the nock is wider, so the recipe above would not work for them.

For nock point I simply use duct tape above the arrow nock. I cut a 2-3cm wide strip and then wrap it around the string 5 or so times -until it's about 2mm thicker than the serving. I do this because I tend to put pressure on the string with the index finger. This also helps in blind nocking because I nock low, then lock the finger below the nock, then push the nock up until it reaches the nocking point.

I use a leather thumb ring, so no issues there.

Found this discussion on reddit a while ago.

Id like to point out that serving has been used a lot in history and it could be that it was wrapped multiple times at the nocking point.
 
I know in kyudo there isnt a nocking point but it is marked, and its reinforced with serving.

Thanks and wow really?  I've never encountered that problem but have had it come off sometimes.  Then again maybe I'm tying too loose?

There are people who mark their nagajikake (serving) when first learning although if you showed up to a shinsa (exam) and the honchi (top ranking sensei) saw it he would fail you.  So after a while you are just supposed to know where to nock it.

In kyujitsu however, a bulky knot is made toward the top end of your nagajikake and acts as the nocking point much like in Korean archery.  It was and is still done to this very day as kyujistu is the actual martial style of Japanese archery that the Samurai would have practiced.  Having a knot in your nagijikake so you could nock effectively without looking was crucial for when the Samurai shot off horseback.  Kyudo grows out of kyujitsu and falls in the modern era of Budo along with a few other arts that the Samurai initial developed during the initial Budo era.  Kyudo was modified from this tradition by Buddhist  monks so that's why certain things are not kept over from the original Budo era.

I've had some instances where it would move although I've had it on my Saluki Damascus for a while now and its pretty stable.  Maybe some Ducos cement would help?  But just a little because otherwise it will be too hard and cause calluses.

The serving for a yumi's string (nagajikake) is traditionally made out of hemp fibers and wrapped around the string while wet with glue.  This is done a few times until you get a thick enough surface so when nocking the arrow it stays in place.  Its kinda like how composite bowers work with sinew.  However, the upper part would be bulked up a little more in order to ensure the nock point.  So actually it is more like an extra layer of material around upper part of the nagajikake.  I used knot above to describe it which I realize now was probably the wrong term to use.