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I don't use the glove. Don't apply excessive twist pressure. Don't use brass nocking mark on string.

Kyudo's yukage doesn't work with korean style.

The shafts fly well as long as it straight. You will need to re-adjust straightness once in awhile.
My shafts are a bit over 8 mm so I use 5/16 plastic glue-on nock with no problem. Nirk nock is my favorite, so far.

Be careful, do not over twist the string as it could climb off the string bridge and send your bow dry fire. It happened a few time to me. After I realized the problem, I usually relax the whole string and put only a couple twist.

I usually order 100 cm shafts as they are difficult to find elsewhere. Quality is good for the price. I found that higher quality arrows with higher price do not loss proof nor hit proof too.

Thank you 
Rubber pads fom SMG worn out a couple years ago so I replaced with thick leather piece.
The painting is just only testing area for gold color felt-tip pen.

Since the backing of modern korean bows are just decorative layer. Removal them couldn't ruin  bow's performance.
Firstly I found most makers use rubber adhesive for this layer. It can be safely removed with oil or petrol based solvent.
Some makers add another urethane foam layer under the backing. This is also for decorative as it add a convex profile, similar with sinew backing. But technically it would contribute negligible amount to bow's performance and can be removed as well.
I had tried many things for replacement backing except birch bark which is not available in Thailand. Bare FRP backing looks nice modern jet black. Paper backing also give a bark feeling and easy to work with but may crack after some time. Fabric, stretchy variety (most modern korean bow use them) is very durable but a bit difficult to work with. Synthetic suede like modern KAYA KTB also looks nice but get dirty very quick. Basically, you may add any flexible material onto the back.
I found rubber adhesive is good for most materials and easy to work with. You may apply them to both the bow bare back and fabric and let it tacky dry then apply the fabic in the same way with sticker.

This is SMG bow with worn out fabric removed and then replaced with red pulp paper. A couple clear coat layers are applied for durability. It has some surface cracks after a year use but still looks nice. 

I would suggest you to re-cosmetic a Kaya KTB instead. It 's cheap and good enough to be a project bow. You may add buid-up rest instead of cut-in shelf.

I do observed cases of minor limb problem like these before. Most of them can be resolved by train the limbs or counter twist. I do not think the twist is intentionally. And I guess that your limb is not twist at un-strung state. That because the limbs of KAYA were machine made. But strung state will need human QC which is currently need some improvement.
The defect could be a hard spot in the wooden core which, some cases, can be resolved. But if the defect is failure spot in wood core or lamination, then you will observe worse and worse twist. In that case you need to put it away.

I see, the product need some craftsmanship skill.
Would you like to get some sample? You may send me some product specifications and offer price. I will show them to the artisan and let you know if he would like to join.

These are sample of his work.
Five of them on the left were made under my specification   

Are you interested in horns from Thailand? 

I currently using a bit overspined shafts for SMG #50, both carbon and bambooo. They fly straight as long as your technique is correct.