1

(9 replies, posted in Bows)

basilisk120 wrote:

It shows up now and it does look great.  I've looked into doing some pvc bows but how did you make that one?

I built a form/press from a 2x8" and cut out the shape with my jig saw.  Then heated the pvc with my http://pvcbendit.com/ (the only way to go IMHO, costs more but makes up for it in the end, very precise and efficient, and takes up no room in shop) and then press it in the form.  I just learned of a new way to make a form which made a big difference in ease of use.  I can post pictures of the form if you are interested.  This is the basic concept https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xs_MG-eFzFA


Dave

2

(9 replies, posted in Bows)

Let me know if you can see it now?

3

(9 replies, posted in Bows)

OK, I think I figured out how to post a photo.  Here is the bow.  It is 51" and I copied the reflex of the Hwarang Bow.  and once strung the finished bow came out very similar to the strung Hwarang Bow.

4

(9 replies, posted in Bows)

I teach trad archery to Elementary school children.  I was inspired by the Korean bow shape so I made a bow press for making PVC copy of the traditional Korean shape and it came out very nice I think.  I have can produce about a dozen of these in an hour.  This one is 17# @ 28"
http://rangersarchery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/forcucci_K_bow.jpg

5

(8 replies, posted in Bows)

Hi,
I am wondering what is under the wrap of the Korean bow handle?  wood? foam?  How is it done?

Thanks
Dave

6

(2 replies, posted in Arrows)

Here is a link to the TBM article and video on how to build the ultimate arrow.
http://rangersarchery.com/ultimate

Dave

7

(2 replies, posted in Arrows)

Hi,
I am new to the group.  This is my first post.

I make bamboo arrows of all sorts and I find that the brown (caramelized) bamboo arrows are more brittle than the raw shafts.  So I do not treat my arrows with high heat to turn them brown.  I just heat straighten and I don't even sand down the nodes (even on Tonkin) but that might be more critical when flinging 140 yards.

I am attaching an article that I wrote for Traditional Bowhunter Magazine.  It is the way I prefer to make my arrows for versatility.  Thought some of you might glean something of interest from it?  These are mostly target and hunting arrows.  Though I am now interested in attempting to make bamboo that will go the distance (140 yards)!  So I am thinking of sanding nodes etc.

I will be starting to make some semi-traditional Korean arrows and prefer parallel points.  Anyone have a good source for these?  Tophat are expensive but work well.  For caramelized bamboo I drill out the threads and glue on.  I now have an inexpensive point for both the raw and caramelized shafts which is inserted into the shaft.  You have probably seen the duplex nail trick, but I use a wrap and heat shrink to keep the shaft from splitting.  Works great and very durable. 

Anybody out there from Seattle?

Dave
Seattle, WA