I have a 53" Nomad KTB from koreanbow.com and I think it's smoother than much longer western recurves since it lacks a huge riser and has stiff tips, and more reflex. A Manchu bow would have a much smoother draw than a Korean bow, and be better for heavy arrows (although awful for light arrows), but a Korean bow of legal hunting draw weight should be more than powerful enough for hunting if you hit the right spot (which you'll have to, anyway). And also, much smaller so more comfortable to carry around.
Bows like the Kaya and Nomad KTB have narrow limbs, while the Samick SKB has wide limbs. I guess narrow limbs are more unstable and unforgiving than wide-limbed ones from what I've heard, but I don't notice it although I've shot both. Perhaps learning with an unforgiving bow is good because you'll know when you're doing something wrong?
This good Olympic archer drew my bow and said "it's so unstable, I can feel the canting". I don't know what that means, really. I think if I had perfect technique and conditioning I could shoot comparably to many of them Olympic style archers with my little unstable, sightless bow, but I really don't, so I struggle to have 9" groups at 20 yards (or even 80" "groups" after I get tired...)
Mayyybe the problems are because they have a loose grip and don't collapse their hand, which doesn't seem to work very well with a Korean bow.
I'm still a beginner and haven't hurt myself much, unlike some people. Just don't screw up too much. Make sure your nock point is high enough. I use thumb draw, too. It feels waay more natural for me than Mediterranean draw on bows without a shelf now.
You should probably start out with a pull of 20lbs or so. I have a 45lbs@31" bow and I struggle with it, so I'm not very accurate.
To save money, you could try making a Bhutanese style bamboo bow (fairly simple) or even a PVC bow. You could check out BackyardBowyer on Youtube or "PVC archery and crafting". You could then build heavier bows, maybe strength training bows, until you can pull 65lbs 80 times at once comfortably, then get something like a 55lbs Hwarang or SMG bow.
Otherwise, I guess I'd recommend a 25-30lb draw weight Nomad KTB as a very first bow, though I think the SMG bows might have a smoother draw although they're more expensive (also carried by koreanbow.com). They should both be more durable than the Samick SKB. I've heard of many Samick SKBs breaking, but barely any Kaya KTBs and the Nomad KTB is similar and cheaper. But it's newer, yet I haven't heard of one breaking yet... At the Korean archery festival, I saw someone dry fire a Kaya KTB two or three times in a row because the arrow slipped off the string (string/serving too thin for the arrow nock), yet it was very surprisingly perfectly fine, apparently. Not sure what the draw weight was, though.
For arrows, you could get Easton jazz arrows online for relatively cheap, or maybe you could try making your own arrows out of bamboo stakes to save money?
It's probably good if you always have the same form. I'm trying to do something like this http://www.koreanarchery.org/classic/bds4.html
but with a higher draw hand because my arrows aren't long enough (33") and I'd probably break my bow drawing a little more
I looked at that and thought of drawing to my arrowhead and anchoring at the earlobe, but I hit my face. Maybe there's a way to avoid doing that, but it seems like a good form for me..? I don't know if he's touching the earlobe with the string