I think it does matter since it's all about what you shoot best with.
For me, around one little finger breadth in height and 3-6 pointer finger breadths in length is what I use for fletching.
3 fletch is good. 4 is better. But try to keep the 4 no more than 4 inches long and low since they have more drag. I made some bamboo arrows Mughal style with the cock up configuration and the 2 of the batch that survived my shooting trials (which shoot better than carbon) shoot like a dream and I feel as though the cock up feather and the 'X' 4 fletch configurations are best since they typically don't have a feather that goes against your hand. But with a good release you barely ever feel the feather. Also, my feathers are almost on top of the nock. I know Korean arrows have the fletching around an inch or so after the nock but personally I think the closer to the nock the better. It stabilizes the arrow much more quickly.
Stick with primary wing feathers since they last longer, and the other side of the quill (the leeward feather I believe) has a weaker feather but it sometimes can be used to make Japanese style arrows since they are easy to strip off the quill and are naturally low .
I experimented a lot recently with making arrows and I have found that next to the straightness of the arrow, the feathers are the most important aspect to consider. Because with thumbring archery you can get away with shooting a variety of spines.