Aiming

I am still pondering this question myself, Thomas. Even with my other bows, shooting off fingers, anything less than 30m was instinctive. I am finding things pretty similar at the moment with thumb release. At first my arrows were way off to the right, now as my technique improves they are grouping. Though I've not had much opportunity to shoot more than medium distances at present, I'm sure it will be the arrow point on some part of the target face. I've never had much luck lining up parts of the bow or limb, etc on the target, as soon as I try this my shooting deteriorates.
As for 145m, I'd love to give that a go.

I understand you, sounds the same as my aiming.

I am also using instinctive shooting techniques, no special aiming.
But I am also using the same technique with my longbows...

In Korean trad, the nocking point is typically found by balancing the bow on the edge of one's hand (usually at the bottom of the center serving) and then flattening the hand up the serving; where your pinky finger is is usually where the nocking point will be.  Of course, hand sizes vary and such, but that is the traditional way.  As for a nocking point, sometimes it will just be marked on with a permanent marker.  If the serving is too thin for the arrow nock, serving string or even floss is often wrapped around to make a nocking point.

Torquing the bow handle CCW a bit--that should help.

I've also started noticing that I get a bit of limb twist on the upper limb after I shoot for a while.  Seems like the string wants to rest a bit to the right of the string bridge?  Is this normal?

I have been shoot with maguar and turkish bows with Mediterranean draw.

When i moved to thumbring, first arrows went right. But soon i started to hit.

I just look in the centre of target, draw and let go. If i start aiming, i miss.

i´m not canting the bow.

Nocking point is brass nock.

Hi Nick--Welcome!

Aiming in KTA is one of the hardest things to describe, as it's very different from "Western" styles of shooting.  There are many aspects about it, with each being important.  First, make sure you have the proper grip; place the handle diagonal in your palm, with the thick end of the handle going into the heel of the palm, and wrap your fingers around the handle, one at a time, starting with the pinky and ending with the thumb.  Next, make sure the inside of your bow arm is parallel to the string and that you have about three fingers' distance between the string and your arm.  After that, make sure your stance is correct; a right-handed archer will place his left foot so that it points at the target and his right foot so that it is at about a 2 o'clock angle.  Drawing is important; push the bow at the same time you pull the string with power coming from the heel of your bow-arm palm--the string should be close to your body.  The actual aiming, itself, is hard to express, as it becomes natural and second-nature, but try placing your bow-arm fist on something in the distance to begin with, until you get a feel for where the arrows are going.  The release is important, too; just simply relax your draw-hand and let physics do the rest.

At 145m, the spine of the arrow isn't as crucial as in closer-distance types of shooting, as the paradox will work itself out over the distance.  Still, it is possible that the arrow may be forced to the right if you have an arrow that is too stiff.  Also, make sure you have the cock feather pointing away from the bow.  One more thing to pay attention to is the nocking point; it will be higher than in Western-styles of archery.

I'm sure there are other things, but check on these things first.

T

I'm right handed so what I say will be referenced to that. Shooting off the left side of the bow  you will be sighting down the arrow which will follow your left index finger. When you point you naturally use your index finger unless you really don't like someone. Thing is shooting off the right side of the bow the arrow will probably go to where the left thumb is pointing which in my case is about 0.5m to the right of what I want to hit at 20 m. A couple of days ago I started concentrating on pointing my left thumb at my point of aim and things improved instantly. My misses, of which there are far fewer seem to be due to slipping back to using my left index finger as a reference when pointing at the target.
maybe this will work for someone else. Thanks for the forum, seems a good source.
Z

Thomas, you mentioned nocking point, what is a great fool proof way to find it? Also is it okay to put a small nocking point on the string to keep the arrow in place? Not sure if it was the nocks on my arrows but it kept sliding up and down the string and was hard to get consistent shot placement and release on my kaya ktb... My shots were off to the right. I'm sure my technique can be improved with practice but I dont want to get any bad habits. It's like if you are in korea and practice there, the techniques are for 145m shots, most of us outside of Korean can only shoot indoors most of time which is 20-40 yards on the average, I wonder if the aiming and technique is the same, you are probably used to aiming in the air to hit your 145m target and I'm aiming down my arrow and sight shooting close range...also I didn't have mug time lately to shoot the kaya ktb so I need to practice a lot more..

The technique Hun mentioned is what we do in KTA for finding the nocking point.  Regarding putting something physical on the serving--archers here will often use floss, thin serving, thread, or even a tuft of cotton (the last one doesn't stay on long, needless to say).

As for sighting, it's hard to do in KTA, as the arrow is on the opposite side from finger shooting, so you can't barrel sight down the shaft.  Over time, it becomes muscle memory as to where you aim, and you won't think much about it, but you might want to start by using a part of your hand or bow as kind of a sight and place it on something in the distance; adjust it as necessary and, later, when muscle memory kicks in, go with that.