• Registered: 2016-11-18
  • Posts: 19
  • User Karma: 5

Topic: Knock point and tuning.

Hi, I was hoping for some input. I am getting weird arrow flight with my bow, have since I got it, I assumed it was something with my form or inconsistency in how I shoot but now that is am final getting used to my bow and comfortable with the draw weight I am not so sure. They don't fly straight they tend to be a bit all over the place. I am wondering if maybe it's my knock point or even the arrows spine. My bow is 61.5#, and the arrows are 9 don, I don't what that converts to. Here is a photo of my knock point if it helps. I plan to ask master Kim they next time I get to his range but I am not 100% sure when I will next be able to go yet.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/Nahtscato/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161212_104649157_zpsrlxoml0o.jpg

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  • Registered: 2010-10-15
  • Posts: 860
  • User Karma: 82

Re: Knock point and tuning.

A_Locomotive wrote:

Hi, I was hoping for some input. I am getting weird arrow flight with my bow, have since I got it, I assumed it was something with my form or inconsistency in how I shoot but now that is am final getting used to my bow and comfortable with the draw weight I am not so sure. They don't fly straight they tend to be a bit all over the place. I am wondering if maybe it's my knock point or even the arrows spine. My bow is 61.5#, and the arrows are 9 don, I don't what that converts to. Here is a photo of my knock point if it helps. I plan to ask master Kim they next time I get to his range but I am not 100% sure when I will next be able to go yet.


The nocking point is, approximately, 3" above the balance point on the string (which is the bottom of the center serving on most Korean bows).  It is above the top of the grip.

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  • Registered: 2015-12-29
  • Posts: 36
  • User Karma: 4

Re: Knock point and tuning.

I followed the directions that came with my bow and put the nock point .5 inch above the location I would normally.  That seems to be working out well.  When I had it a bit lower it was bouncing off of my hand, but not 100% certain that wasn't poor technique as well.

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  • Registered: 2011-10-16
  • Posts: 54
  • User Karma: 15

Re: Knock point and tuning.

The best way for me is to use a lighted nock and an unfletched arrow in low light conditions. Set-up a camera from behind with an exposure time of at least 2 seconds, ideally 5. First check that you do not get an over-exposure. Have someone help you or set-up the camera timer to capture the flight. At 20 meters you should see a nice trajectory, but I recommend to shoot the first ones starting with 10m or so until you get used to the unfletched arrows. With trial and error you will find the best nock position.

The picture below does not tell much. The hand might sit lower or higher on the grip and it may change the position of the arrow in relation to the grip. If the arrow sits in this exact position when shot, then this looks ok. But it also depends alot on how you load each limb and how your bow is more stable/balanced.

When you lower the nock, it will eventually hit your thumb (and that will hurt). I add forward pressure to the grip (basically I use a straight wrist, as much as possible), which also helps to prevent the nock hitting my thumb.

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5 Reply by Pedro C (edited by Pedro C 2017-03-03 03:45:17)

  • From: SoCal
  • Registered: 2015-08-12
  • Posts: 319
  • User Karma: 15

Re: Knock point and tuning.

Any updates?

storm wrote:

The best way for me is to use a lighted nock and an unfletched arrow in low light conditions. Set-up a camera from behind with an exposure time of at least 2 seconds, ideally 5. First check that you do not get an over-exposure. Have someone help you or set-up the camera timer to capture the flight. At 20 meters you should see a nice trajectory, but I recommend to shoot the first ones starting with 10m or so until you get used to the unfletched arrows. With trial and error you will find the best nock position.

The picture below does not tell much. The hand might sit lower or higher on the grip and it may change the position of the arrow in relation to the grip. If the arrow sits in this exact position when shot, then this looks ok. But it also depends alot on how you load each limb and how your bow is more stable/balanced.

When you lower the nock, it will eventually hit your thumb (and that will hurt). I add forward pressure to the grip (basically I use a straight wrist, as much as possible), which also helps to prevent the nock hitting my thumb.

That's a cool idea.
A straight wrist is not Korean technique. Forward khatra is done sometimes (still with a low wrist), but not too often. Just side khatra alone seems more common.

I'm trying to achieve clean arrow flight with no torquing/khatra in order to eliminate variables, should lead to more accurate shooting. I think it's a cleanliness of release and back tension issue. Of course your way of shooting can work great as well..

Pedro C's Website

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