So I'm in the market for a new bow to replace my old one (had to sell it for school money).  I loved my Hwarang, but the only thing I didn't like about it was how fragile the birch bark was.  Keep in mind, I'm not a korean shooter, but rather a massive archery fan that loves aerial and targets.  With that said, I came across the Nomad Black Shadow, and it seems to be produced by Kaya (looks like a branch off of the company?).  It has the goods without the bark, and I find the designs extremely appealing, but I don't want to cut any corners with it.

My questions are: Are these actually good bows?  Are they prone to failures, or any QC issues?  This will be a very longterm bow for me, and I want to make sure I pick out something fantastic.

2

(6 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

Qdlat wrote:

Umm i know that a lot time passed since you wrote that post but is this beauty still for sell? If yea, is it possible to send it to uk?

Yep, still up for grabs.  Sorry for the delay, I've been busy with school.

3

(6 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

I'm about to give up, but before I do, I guess I'll try $225.

Also, I'm open for a trade if anyone has a primitive bow that's around 50#-65#.

4

(6 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

Final price drop: $250 shipped.

5

(6 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

I just realized that $300 may be steep for such a highly redone bow.  You guys might not see the same charm in it that I do tonguePrice drop- $275

6

(6 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

I hate selling this, but I'm a broke student that needs money to fix my car for next semester, and this is one of my most cherished items.  sad

Anyway, I'll buy another one later on, so this one can go to a new home!  Below is a list of the things that I've done to it over the time that I've had it.  Currently, the bow shoots like a brand new bow, and I easily trust my life to it as far as reliability, construction...etc.  It's perfectly straight without any twist, which I say because it sort of looks like there's twist in one of the pictures, but it's just the angle I took the picture.

- Rebacked the bow with synthetic suede (100% polyester) for water-proofness and durability.

- Completely redid the grip with a non-spiraled suede (real suede, not synthetic for durability).

- Re-wrapped the strands at the siyahs and above and below the grip with red polyester fiber (single strand for an older construction look).

- There's a new leather arrow-pass on the LEFT side (not right).  I have bad arthritis, and I had to switch to a Mediterranean draw.  Now I can redo this if someone wants the arrow-pass on the other side for right-handed thumbring shooting.


The new backing is a lot more durable than the birch bark.  I had a problem with my grip separating with the original wrapping, and it kept trying to separate, which is why I decided on a single piece or leather for the wrapping.  It's also worth noting that I removed the leather nock covers for when I did the backing, and I reworked the nocks to be glassy smooth.... someone could put some horn or leather on them if they wanted to, but I've just never gotten around to it.  The string does not shift while shooting... I know some do, but this one does not.

Lastly, I redid all of this stuff with a major thing in mind: the ability to remove and replace at will.  I used glues that easily come off with a bit of effort.  The fiber wrapping is NOT glued into place, and you can undo them to change the color or to simply rework.  The leather arrow-pass is glued to the fibers above the grip, so you'd have to re-wrap the fibers if you decide to replace the arrow-pass.  I think that's about all I can think of, so here's some pictures!

If you have any questions or anything, just let me know!

http://i.imgur.com/LKb5ydn.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FzB8IAh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QqMfZAu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/C7X1Gtd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/x8hFnIA.jpg


I'm hoping to get $300 for it (free shipping in the US), which includes the bow, the sock, and two horn nock blanks in case you want to glue on some horn eventually.  Thanks for looking! smile

7

(10 replies, posted in Arrows)

bluelake wrote:
Mule wrote:

But what is cellophane paper? All I can find is clear plastic made of cellulose..

"Cellophane" was the closest thing I could find for what the fletcher was using.  Actually, it reminded me more of cigarette rolling papers...

I believe you're actually trying to describe "onion paper"... it's what a lot of large holy books are made out of to condense their size, and it fits your description pretty well.

8

(1 replies, posted in Arrows)

Hey guys, so I got my new shafts in, and I thought it'd be cool to make my brother a set of fine bamboo arrows with proper feather fletching and some broadheads for a birthday gift!  So while I was ordering my glue-on tips, taper tool, and feathers I decided to add some Zwickey Eskimo broadheads (two blade) into the cart.  They have really great reviews, and I think the minimalistic design looks great, but I'm not sure how I should glue them on.  Is there a certain angle to glue them?  I know arrows with a helical twist don't start spinning properly until about 10 yards out or so, and I would think that gluing them on horizontally would give some lift assistance to the arrows before they start spinning.  However, I've seen a lot of photos of them being vertically mounted!  So does this even matter?

So for anyone that's used broadheads like this, how should I glue them on?  I won't be testing them as they're a gift for him, and I don't want to blemish them at all... so I'll pretty much be taking someone's word on how to glue them on.  Also, if you've used these specific broadheads before, are they okay?  They seemed pretty inexpensive, but I bought them on the basis of the reviews I was reading.  Thanks in advance! smile

9

(1 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

Hey guys! So my shafts are arriving tomorrow or the next day, but I ordered way too many shafts than what I need.  Mike from Oulay is a pretty good upseller!  Anyway, I have an extra dozen or two that will just be sitting here, and I thought that maybe someone would want to trade me some glue on field points, glue on broadheads, or right-wing feathers for some.  I'm willing to trade other stuff for them, but that's all I could think of off the top of my head.

Specs
33" (84cm)
60# spine

10

(42 replies, posted in Bows)

a1111318 wrote:

Thank you so much for your explaination. Just couple of questions also confuse me. The SMG made from Bamboo but YMG and KAYA use Maple. Is it very different in their performance or not?

The Birch is very very good and important moistureproof for the traditional horn bow. But for the Carbon laminated bow, is it very necessary?  I just say that for the function rather than the aesthetics

YMG uses bamboo as well.  I've actually completely redone my bow due to a terrible accident (tripped down stairs and slide on my bow  sad), and I had to remove my birch, because that's what got damaged....in fact it was the ONLY thing that got damaged.  Like bluelake said, it is just there because it's beautiful.  I can't speak for the other bows, as I've not used them, but I have totally stripped my YMG, refinished it, re-backed it, re-wrapped it, and have seen some stuff about it that most people probably would never see; YMG goes to unusual levels to make sure that even the stuff under the birch, string wrapping, and leather is perfect even though you should never see it.

So when I had everything stripped apart, and it's innards exposed, I just sat there and admired how perfect it was even though no one should ever see it in that state.  Before buying my bow, I did at least 30 hours of research, and sent a lot of people a lot of emails.  In the end, I don't think that you could go wrong with any of the bows you're inquiring about, because they're all very reputable and have a significant fan-base.  I ended up avoiding actual horn belly because the bow I wanted would be my left hand, and it would have to endure everything I do.  I shoot in rain, ice, wind, dark.... and my bow has always been more reliable than I could've imagined.  The horn scared me (I live in a humid area...then dry...then humid sad), and while I want a horn bow one day, I would have to reach for my carbon YMG if I had to pick something I'd trust my life to.

Anyway, good luck man.  I know that whatever you decide on will be fantastic, and don't forget to brag to us about your new bow whenever you get it! big_smile

11

(4 replies, posted in Bows)

I brainstormed and came up with curtain rod holders (the wooden ones).  I found some real wood ones at Lowe's for like $4, and then I grabbed a thing of felt strips while I was there.  I couldn't be happier as far as something to not only store it, but also something that looks amazing for displaying it.  smile

Excuse my unmaid bed: midterm studying hmm ... also, it sleeps next to me.

http://i.imgur.com/BZXtSvj.jpg

12

(42 replies, posted in Bows)

I'm more sure I'd want a "stronger" pull.  I love that these bows feel like you're pulling a 50#+ rubber band.  Hopefully someone will chime in about the difference.

I'm going to order my first bamboo shafts tonight or tomorrow from Oulay.  I've never used bamboo before, and I need some help with the spine.  Now lately I've been shooting at 28" (not the 32" with the thumbring... arthritis is causing problems with my thumb).  Now, my bow is 50#@28", and I was thinking I'd get some 60# spine shafts, but I'm seeing that sometimes they will break at the node if they're spined close to the bow weight.

Do you guys think 60 spine is too low at 50#@28"?  Does anyone have experience with Oulay's bamboo shafts?  Thanks for any help!

14

(3 replies, posted in Accessories)

WillScarlet wrote:

Twisting the string to shorten or untwisting to lengthen the string does nothing adversely to affect the limbs, otherwise everyone who shoots a traditional (or compound bow for that matter) would have problems. As anal as some shooters are about tuning their bows this would be a topic of concern, and I have never seen or heard of such a subject. Even if it DID have some affect we most likely, as shooters, would not be able to detect it.
          If you are speaking of some other form of twisting the string then the above does not apply.
                                                                                                                                                    Will

That's what I was asking about.  I came across a post somewhere that said the proper brace distance should slightly under 6"... So I may twist it to that and see what I think.  I just didn't want to put any unnecessary strain on the limbs.  Thanks!

15

(3 replies, posted in Accessories)

I know that this is a common practice in other forms of archery, and I am curious about what you guys think.  Do any of you put a few twists on the string before you nock it?  I've always avoided this, because I've always been under the impression that it can cause limb torsion.  So what do you think?

16

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

Yeah you could polish it, but it looks carbon fibery, which I didn't care for too much.  The bows, under the birch, are beautiful, and I actually prefer that to the birch, but that backing of carbon ruins it.  I have really been enjoying the synthetic suede that I used, and all I did was cover the carbon fiber backing.  I thought about finding a sliver of bamboo (super thin), and gluing it onto the backing, but I couldn't find anything g that worked.  If you come across bamboo like this, please let me know, because that would be my perfect setup.

Also, be careful with that carbon fiber.  It's stranded, and I splintered a very tiny piece (like hair sized), and it would've gotten bigger if I hadn't noticed it while working on it.  Nothing that some 2 ton epoxy didn't fixed, but definitely be careful, and take notice of that.

17

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

sissara wrote:

Thank you  big_smile
Rubber pads fom SMG worn out a couple years ago so I replaced with thick leather piece.
The painting is just only testing area for gold color felt-tip pen.

I actually thought about trying leather for the pads.  Does the leather add to the sound?  I didn't do it because I thought it may make it louder.... I'm in the middle of a city (huge back yard), and I don't want my neighbors to think I'm shooting a gun lol.

18

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

Man....that's beautiful.  Did you shift the rubber pads towards the tips, or are the SMGs like that?  I was concerned about dirt, so I put a coat of hydrophobia on the fabric, so dirt and what should be repelled by the fabric.  Fingers crossed.

Did you paint your siyahs, or are those decals?

19

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

Wow....terrible typos.  I'll fix it when I get home, and take proper pictures.  Thanks for everyone's help!

20

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

Hey guys, I just wanted to post an update to the work I've done on it.  As of right now it's done, but I do have to go out and find a polishing block to burnish everything up nicely as a finally (especially the belly and fabric).

I went with "furniture grade" 100% polyester suede from a local fabric store.  I chose this because this bow is pretty much my left arm, and I want to make sure that it's tough while still maintaining that delicate feel.  The first go around I rolled the fabric to the belly just as the birch was, but honestly....I felt like the beautiful veneers u dear it we're being hidden, and being a perfectionist, I decided to just back it with the material, and clean up the sides.  The glue that is used for the birch is like a rubber cement, and I have to say that this is the toughest glue I've ever tried to remove, but not it that rock hard epoxy way, rather like they old Looney tunes cartoon way.  I do NOT recommend that anyone else try to do this....it was a nightmare 95% of the time.  I thought I ruined the bow a couple of times (not a good feeling), but it ended up being glue that was stuck on.  All in all, if I could steer anyone clear from trying this I would.  With that said, I'm very haply with the results, and while it isn't nearly as pretty as the birch, I do like it more, and i , for the first time ever, am not concerned if the backing is safe.

Lastly, excuse any typos in here....I'm on my phone tongue.


http://imgur.com/djDJGPF.jpg
http://imgur.com/vjxouLw.jpg
http://imgur.com/Ex3CUSU.jpg
http://imgur.com/WAL5rlS.jpg

21

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

raven wrote:

Can you take some pics of limbs without the birch bark?

I would like to see what it looks like.
The more I think about it, the more that I think it probably would look really nice to put a nice finish on it.

It would be great to see some photos.

I've been taking photos throughout the entire process, and was thinking about posting them, but I would hate for anyone inexperienced to attempt this.  If it's okay with Thomas, I'll post it when I'm done, but if he thinks that is a bad idea I'll hold off (being that he's the seller of these).

My special superpower is finishing surfaces lol, but I did put a "glass" finish on a section to see how it looks, and I can honestly say that it doesn't look that great.  It looks like a carbon arrow, and has that "pencil lead" lookto it, and it really takes away from the rest of the bow.  At this very moment I'm gluing some  synthetic black suede onto it, and I'm going to redo all of the string with either red or royal blue.  I'm copying the original layout, so the paper pulp belly will be the same.

Also, I want to say that these bows are fantastically built; I didn't quite appreciate the bowyers work until I started redoing it....ever single measurement is delicately marked, and the build quality is simply topnotch.

22

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

Update: Okay guys, I got most of the birch off, and test shot it; the bow shoots the same without the backing in case anyone was wondering.  The lamination seems to be carbon|bamboo|carbon|bamboo|paper pulp (though one of those carbon may be fiberglass...idk) for anyone that was curious.

Now, for you authentic Korean shooters, what do you recommend I reback it with?  I've thought about polishing it up and leaving it unbacked, but I'm on the fence about this.  I thought about lacing deerskin (thin...and shouldn't add weight to the limbs), but I really don't like that primitive type of style with the leathers, feathers, sinew, snake skin....etc, and want to avoid doing anything that would seem like that.  What do you guys think would look good without adding bulk to the limbs?

23

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

Just wanted to chime in and set anyone at ease.  I was chasing a racoon (it keeps getting into my trash), I slipped on the deck and fell three feet or so bow-first hmm.  Now I've put a lot of palm wax on it to protect it (which I think is the typical "shoewax" in Korea), but the fall was just too much.

Anyone that may come across this.....I wouldn't expect your birch to simply mess up easily....in fact I've been having a tough time getting it off, and my specialty is resurfacing woods and metals.  I added a foot-note on the first post in this thread to explain what happened, and considering what all happened, I think the bow took it like a real trooper! smile

24

(7 replies, posted in Arrows)

Chadwck wrote:

Do any of you shoot vanes instead of feathers?

Yeah sometimes!  You have to have the releasing twist down good or else it will deflect (and tear up the arrow pass pad).  Modern Korean arrows seem to use a lot of synthetic vanes if you buy them premade.  There's a thread on here about it somewhere, so I recommend looking for it.  Good luck!

25

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

bluelake wrote:

The Korean bowyers never like to talk in detail about which layer is which, but some lams are black carbon (along with wood/bamboo [depends upon the bowyer], glass, and others).

So do you think it'll damage the....integrity of the limbs if I remove the birch?  I'd just hate to shoot an arrow and two limbs at my target  yikes.  I've worked on wood bows, and know wood needs a backing to keep it from fracturing, but these aren't the same.