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Korean Traditional Archery → Bows → New Hwarang Ordered
I may be wrong, but even with B-50 dacron I don't think you would need 16 strands.
Well, I WAS wrong; after checking my notes I see that 16 strands of B-50 dacron IS what's
called out for bows 55 to 80 pounds.
(Just so no one receives bad information) 
Update:
The strings that come with the bow are double served-I just carefully cut the top layer, peeled it back for the middle 3/4 and sealed the ends with locktite.
As for my thumbring, I spent the afternoon building it up and reshaping it; finally putting a thick piece of leather inside to pad it. It still isn't perfect but it's better. Incidentally, this thumbring I made from flattened PVC pipe glued up on layers.
Now to get the test arrows prepared...
Kanuck
The pvc idea I got from JBL here on the forum. They work great. Because I prefer a more subtle ring, I use the pvc of a 5 inch pipe and shape the ring along the contour of the pipe. Works great!!
I've seen a "how-to" on making a thumb ring out of a PVC pipe "elbow" . I'll try to find it
and place a link.
(May have been on HERE somewhere LOL)
Kanuck, stringing it should not be hard, it's just a little confusing at first, and since the limbs are short they may slip and scrape your shin if you're not careful. It's all about the a gle and getting the crook of the limb secure on your shin and then bending the top limb with your hand. Manhandle the limb, it can handle it. Make sure string is straight and it will get very easy after a few times. After you master this you won't even need a stringer for your recurred and longbows. This technique if taught widely would put the bow stringer companies out of business.
Exactly, I no longer use the bow stringer to brace the 60# Bamabow Royal Expedition. The walk through method is so handy! The bow stringer is only useful for very heavy poundage bows: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVPs9zRASfU
Kanuck, stringing it should not be hard, it's just a little confusing at first, and since the limbs are short they may slip and scrape your shin if you're not careful. It's all about the a gle and getting the crook of the limb secure on your shin and then bending the top limb with your hand. Manhandle the limb, it can handle it. Make sure string is straight and it will get very easy after a few times. After you master this you won't even need a stringer for your recurred and longbows. This technique if taught widely would put the bow stringer companies out of business.
I have no problem stringing the bow with the step through method (or similarly while sitting) but found it was different after using a stringer for so long. Thankyou all for you suggestions.
Kanuck
Well, managed a few shots today. I had full length carbon shafts in sizes 400, 340 and 300. Each had a 75gr brass glue in adapter filled with lead for an adapter weight of 145gr. Each also had a glue on field point -400 had 145gr, 340 had 160gr and
300 had 190gr. These where bare shafts without fletching. Dynamic spine seemed similar for each. At 10 yards all flew straight, thanks to the high FOC balance. Considering they were all between 9 and 10 gpp, the apparent speed was very impressive. My perception was that they shot with more authority than my 70lb Hill longbow at 28". Draw weight with the Hwarang at 32" ATA was about 65lbs.
Just for fun I also has some hickory shafts spined 70-75 that I use with the longbow. At 31 1/2" BOP and again with heads of 145, 160 and 190 overall mass was between 850 and 900gr. Unfortunately the thread wrap I put over the leading edge of the fletching struck the arrow pass quite severely to the point where I will have to replace it - that's what happens when you rush while making arrows. Anyways, they flew poorly because of hard contact with the arrow pass but they flew with impressive apparent speed considering it was 14 gpp or so.
The thumbring I am using will need more work and I will need to work on extending my draw length to get the last inch but the results of the initial preliminary test were quite gratifying.
Kanuck
Kanuck, it looks as though you manipulated the different shaft sizes to the same dynamic spine with the insert/point weights. Was this intentional, or accidental, and if intentional, were you aiming at a particular spine to match the bow's draw-weight? If that WAS the case, it would seem anti-productive to have a varied set of shafts for testing purposes if they were
all made to be the same dynamic spine and all weigh the same. Not criticizing, just wondering. Of coarse that can changed by changing the point weights. Also, if you have a formula for predetermining all of this, I would be very interested! 
Will
My intention with the carbons was to try a variety of combinations that would minimize the effect of the various static spines by loading up the front ends to help average out the dynamic spines. It was just the first experiment ... Lots of variations to try yet. Because i am using glue on point adapters, change around will require a bit more work than just screwing in a new head. Also, this is my first time working with carbon shafts so I was interested in what the difference would be in dynamic spine. Until my draw length and release become uniform I will not feel comfortable deciding on a final spine, although the narrow arrow pass and thumb release seem to make spine less critical than for a finger released longbow.
Also, I got your PM about draw weight at 33" but I haven't checked it yet. 32" ATA is looking pretty close to maximum. If I can get to the shop in town and use their bowscale I'll try to plot a force draw curve to 33" ATA.
Kanuck
"My intention with the carbons was to try a variety of combinations that would minimize the effect of the various static spines by loading up the front ends to help average out the dynamic spines."
I'd say you were pretty successful in that first intention, since all the bare shafts flew well. Might be good to keep a detailed chart of all the combinations and results. 
Good work! Will
Incidentally, the FOCs came out at 24.6% for the 400, 26.6% for the 340 and 25.8% for the 300, all without fletching. Weight of insert and field point were 290gr, 305gr and 335gr.
Kanuck
Incidentally, the FOCs came out at 24.6% for the 400, 26.6% for the 340 and 25.8% for the 300, all without fletching. Weight of insert and field point were 290gr, 305gr and 335gr.
Kanuck
So, theoretically, taking the average of those two (%of FOC and point/insert weight) would give you what your bow shot best. 25.6%/310 gr. Further testing will refine those two numbers. Also that's just carbon shafts at the length you're shooting. Ain't archery fun!? 
Any illustration you can provide? Do I bucket lift with free weights or cable?
Kanuck wrote:Warbow
Bucket lifts....lots and lots of bucket lifts....with both arms. When you can bucket lift 150# your goal of 120# will be easy
I use wet sand in a 40L bucket 1(left?) arm on a table keeping my back straight (right hand)pulling it up and down slow as can be. vice-versa for balance.
An empty bucket frm a building site is the go.
Regards.
Korean Traditional Archery → Bows → New Hwarang Ordered
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