1

(6 replies, posted in Technique)

I believe Korean stance is from horseback archery, which the body face targets.  Koreans seemed to use different stances when they use heavy bows.  But current Korean shooting technique is focused on long distance target shooting. People do not use bows heavier than 50-60lbs because even 40lbs Korean bows can hit 145m target easily. They do not teally need to shoot heavy bows.
When both legs are straight and face the target, you have to use your back(spine) muscle to twist upper body and draw the arm pass the ear.  You also need to have strong lower body and spine strength to do the proper Korean technique.  Some people in Korea do the Korean archery to heal back problems.
Basically, Korean technique is a bit harder to learn compare to other styles.  The stance is different, the grip is different(torquing the bow, and low wrist grip), and focus on long distance target shooting, etc.
There are styles and techniques that make you hit targets(30-60yard) easily compare to Korean style for sure.

2

(15 replies, posted in Bows)

Because it's wider, and has heavier siyahs compare to modern Korean target bows, the war bow's shooting distance might be shorter, and might be slower too.  However, it's more stable, will not twist easily, and shoot heavier arrows.

3

(16 replies, posted in Bows)

Show us some pictures smile

4

(17 replies, posted in Technique)

dziki wrote:
joomong wrote:

Your nocking the arrow is western style.  Its totally fine, but if you are interested, try Asian style nocking arrows.

What do you mean writing "Asian style nocking"? Wrapper on the string or something else ?

Check this video at 3min. Watch how he loads the arrow.  I meant the way to load arrows.
http://youtu.be/kB0-LKCKbv8

joomong wrote:

You seem like you stop pulling once it reaches the full draw.  Try to practice keep pulling at full draw, then just release as straight as possible.  You will notice big differences.

I have same problem, I stop pulling because I afraid to overdraw. I don't feel "wall" + short (32.5") arrow give me not comfortable situation. After the incident with my Hwarang bow i stopped trust my horn nocks and I stopped using bamboo arrow. I need to buy some long carbon shafts (34") from Berpaw.

Wow you guys have long arms... What happened to your bow?  Broken by over draw?  If you broke it because you drawed too far, you need to get a heavier bow, or order jangjang gung, which can draw at least 33"?

5

(2 replies, posted in Technique)

Pedro C wrote:

security question cut off my post again. At the quote.

Why is a narrow bow that can be twisted better for doing the "bow torque"? Can't it be done with a more wide-limbed bow?

Is it really hard to do it consistently to get good accuracy?

Just how slight is the CCW twist?

Got "trigger finger" on my bow hand little finger and it's been sore for months

Arrows still mostly point to the left when they hit the target, and fly to the right. I grip the bow almost from the side (force against the thumb bone) and try to push it so the top limb bends more. But it seems to require a lot of strength

Thanks for all the information!

When you grip the bow handle, your bottom 3 fingers should not touch your palm.  Around 1 to .5cm gap between them.  This is for Korean grip, and it helps torquing the bow.  If you just grip the bow western or other styles, grip the bow lightly, and when full draw, you twist your wrist CCW slightly. 
You can hear whether arrows hit the limb or not.  When shoots perectly, it should make no sound.  Shoot your arrow at 2m distance, and see whether the arrow hit the target straight.  If it does, move back to 3m, and try it again.  If it does not hit straight, its either your release or the spine of arrows do not match.

6

(17 replies, posted in Technique)

NickAntz wrote:

My latest video shooting.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qMe_a956H9E

Your nocking the arrow is western style.  Its totally fine, but if you are interested, try Asian style nocking arrows.  Also, practice looking at the target while you nock the arrow, draw, aim, and shoot.  Never eyes off from your target.
It seems good improvement from your last videos, but you still creep forward right before releasing.  When you draw, you do not stop drawing.  Although it looks drawing is stop at full draw, its still pulling.  You seem like you stop pulling once it reaches the full draw.  Try to practice keep pulling at full draw, then just release as straight as possible.  You will notice big differences.

7

(15 replies, posted in Bows)

Pedro C wrote:

Cool, I imagine it could be used with medium(medium-light?) to heavy arrows?
Any idea what the string material is?
That's a hell of a lot of reflex. Would be great to see one strung and drawn

I want to see it strung too.  I do not know what is the material of string.  Back in the day, archers shot over 100lbs bows so I guess arrows must be at least medium to heavy arrows.

8

(15 replies, posted in Bows)

Here are some pictures of Korean war bow in Museum, Paris.
As you can see here, the siyah is different, and the limb is not just flat, like current Korean bows.  The middle limbs are the widest, about 4.2cm. 

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/gorillajin/a0114898_4dd54e938f3c6.jpg

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/gorillajin/a0114898_4ddddebf20134.jpg

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/gorillajin/a0114898_4ddddeb1d8e1f.jpg

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/gorillajin/chiwoo_quiver-2.jpg

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/gorillajin/a0114898_4dd54ebda6f77.jpg

9

(69 replies, posted in Bows)

Greyhamster wrote:
geoarcher wrote:
peterhaslund wrote:

@geoarcher: What do you think I can do to buy a laminated horn bow like yours?

I actually don't have the laminated horn bow.  Rather that's greyhamster's.  I do have a suggestion though: contact Korean Gungsulwon over at this ebay address: http://www.ebay.com/usr/luke1731.  They sell the SMG bows and just about every other Korean archery product you'd ever need.  I asked them about the one by SMG bow made out of all bamboo and they were even willing to sell that one to me.  Their mark up isn't too bad either.  Other than that you could always deal with Koreanbows.com and see what they'd do for you.

I contacted them previously. Their laminated bow is carbonbacked and not SMG but rather from another bowyer. I could look up the message if you want

marc wrote:

Interesting discussion since SMG has an English version of their website!!  I wonder if anyone is taking into account that these bows have to be made by hand?  For the ease of communication and quality of bow you may want to contact bluelake and order a Hwarang.

They´re not actually made by hand though, at least not entirely. The instruction booklet shows a few pictures of the construction process. And when the bowyer finally obtained the necessary horn it only took 5 days before it was finished and shipped.

His Hwarang´s area carbonbacked though and the reason I went through all this trouble is because I wanted a horn-backed bow. It´s also cheaper to buy from SMG. Horn Bow with sock, 2 strings, 2 sets of reserve rubbers and a very sturdy and handy case cost me 420 dollars, compared to the 450 Bluelake asks (No offense to his products or his quality, they are very good as well and he does offer good customer service from what I hear.)

peterhaslund wrote:

@geoarcher: What do you think I can do to buy a laminated horn bow like yours?

Www.koreanbows.com can sell them to you. They have a markup though (430 with shipping vs 395 with shipping)

djkoo wrote:

(speaking from just my own experience with SMG)
I think they just lack resources to communicate with non-korean speaking customers. I speak korean and I gave them a call and texted the lady what I wanted, wired the money a few minutes later, and I saw my bow about 5 days later in Texas. Not to dig into their personal life, but the person that helped me seemed like a mother figure (kids, dogs, etc over the phone) and didn't seem like they have the resource for foreign inquiries.

Again, these are all just guesses from my perspective. I was extremely happy with the service... nothing bad to say. Coming from a Korean culture, its understandable that it is frightening to try to communicate in english when english is so heavily pushed to everyone...

Never had any experience with other distributors but i think it might be easier to obtain it from other sources if possible.

I suppose you are right. I´m just kind of pissed it took 3 months to order a bow and especially because I heard nothing for a month after paying them and because I received a bow 5 lbs above draw weight.

geoarcher wrote:

Agree that SMG has gone to complete hell with customer orders/service.  However, its probably the best company for a modern Korean synthetic as their bows typically outperform the rest in all other categories and the bang for the buck factor is still good.  Shame though they screwed up the draw weight here.  Buying from Gungsulwon may be the better option here after all.

@ Greyhamster: what is the strung length of the bow?  Is it about 50 or 51 inches?

40 inches unstrung, 48 inches when strung. By far the smallest bow I´ve ever seen. It´s the second larges size (advertised as 127 cm, forgot the name)

Brad.Canton wrote:

I asked over at koreanbows.com the lamanted horn bow would be $430 including shipping to NZ I also got a response from warmachie on Facebook but he said that a 35pound one wasn't in stock at the moment

Do keep in mind that their bows are measured at 31.8 inches, so you´ll want to order one about 10 lbs above your regular draw weight (a bow gains about 2,5 lbs per inch)

------------------

On to the bow itself!

I´ve been shooting it for a week now, shooting a few arrows every day. I still suck due to the effort required to draw it, I regularly fuck up the gripping but still, I can see and feel that this is a very, VERY good bow. It has some shock (Using the lightest weight arrows allowed with the bow) but I don´t actually feel it because the grip absorbs the shock. It´s also very quiet. It´s also blisteringly fast. I don´t have access to a chronograph but just by eyeballing I´d say it´s probably the fastest traditional bow on the club, possibly tied with a hunting recurve from a friend. My previous 35 lbs fibreglass hungarian had trouble hitting the 25 meter and I´d see longbow shooters with 40 lbs longbows arcing at the 25 meters as well. This bow just flatlines at that range. I´ve shot a few arrows at 30, 40 and 50 meters just to see how it performs and it´s only at 50 meters that I really have to start aiming quite a bit higher.

I also can´t express just how wonderful the bow feels. It´s light and small and weighs pretty much nothing. The limbs are also slightly bent, so the bowstring rests just to the right of the centre of the bow which is a far more elegant solution than cutting a shelf. The limbs themselves are also wonderfully thin, about the thickness of my thumb.

I do have some gripes though: The grip is a bit small. I can fit my hand on but I have rather small hands (latex gloves size S, size 7 for surgery gloves should anyone be familiar with those sizes) and I do sort of wish it was a bit bigger. I also REALLY hate the nocks.
http://www.hornbow.com/hktb2.jpg
It´s part of the Korean bow design but MAN, do I hate them. The loops on the bowstring are so large they can twist and slip over the nocks on to the limbs so you´ve got to be really careful when stringing it. You also can´t twist them or make the loops smaller because the loops themselves fall in two grooves to ensure they are in the right place. Stringing it is a bit harder than my hungarian bow. It´s also a bit of a shame that there´s brightly colored markings and stickers on the nocks.
Like I said, I recieved a bow 5 lbs heavier than ordered and it´s thus a good 10 lbs above my previous bow. I can´t really draw it back to my full 32 inches but I have not noticed any stacking so far.

Bottom line: I really like this bow. I bought it as my competition bow (it being horn backed, completely traditional, small, light and having top-notch performance) and it certainly delivers. I´m sure I will feel comfortable doing field shooting or 3d shooting with this bow. I´ll certainly be able to giggle at folks carring a 70 inch longbow around and snagging it on branches tongue It´s a great bow in many regards even though I do have some issues with it. I would heartily recommend it to anyone, although perhaps obtained through other channels.


Finally, a question from me: What´s a good way to maintain the birch bark cover?

Also, what arrow spines for what bow weight do you guys use? It looks like I might have to get 11/32 shafts which feels kind of thick. But I´m getting a required spine of 65-70 with my 55lbs SMG bow.

I heard you can use bee wax to maintain the birch bark.  But I am not so sure.

I use 50lbs SMG, and my arrows are Gold tip traditional hunter carbon arrow 5575 spine with 100g or 125g tips.

10

(9 replies, posted in Bows)

NickAntz wrote:
joomong wrote:
jbl wrote:

I was wondering how many Korean bowyers are still making the horn bow and who is considered the best?  I also read somewhere that the horn bows of 20+ years ago where wider than those produced now; can anyone verify this?

Yes, I think you are right.  Old Korean horn bows were wider than current ones.

Why? What's the difference?

I am not so sure, but I will ask around people. I saw old pictures of horn bows, and indeed they were wider.

11

(9 replies, posted in Bows)

jbl wrote:

I was wondering how many Korean bowyers are still making the horn bow and who is considered the best?  I also read somewhere that the horn bows of 20+ years ago where wider than those produced now; can anyone verify this?

Yes, I think you are right.  Old Korean horn bows were wider than current ones.

12

(5 replies, posted in Bows)

I also believe some people in Korea try to recreate war bows, but all they do is just changing the siyah.  I hope some real bowyers do research, and come up with truthful recreation of war bow.

13

(5 replies, posted in Bows)

NickAntz wrote:

More reflex = more stored energy = more speed = armor penetration (war times). About the historical warbow: Materials same as hornbow?

Korean war bow's material were horn, sinew, fish bladder glue, and two different woods.  Bamboo was not used like current Korean horn bows, which are for target practicing.  So the big differences between the war bow and horn bow are the different tip of siyah, no bamboo was used on war bow, and the width and length is a bit different.  I believe war bows were a bit wider.

Hello,

Can anyone tell me how to tell the differences between carbon and artificial horn bow by looking at them?
The bow I am looking at is printed "Goryo" on the lower limb. The belly is shiny black material, and the outside is wrapped with wood color material. 
No way to tell what it is...carbon? Artificial horn?

Thank you.

15

(1 replies, posted in Bows)

Do arrows fly straight?  Some people say that if the string does not unstring, its ok....but I am not an expert.  As long as it shoots fine, I would not worry about it.

Ok, I just got back from an archery range, and the arrows are definately not for my bow.
The arrows sliced the leather part so much that sometimes I could smell burned.
I decided to order 145g points.  I will report back whether heavier points fixed my problem.

Thank you for the help, Mule.

Mule wrote:

Are you drawing to the back of your head/shoulder? KTB draw weight is measured at 31" so at 27" you're drawing more like 22#

According to this arrow chart https://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf 1916 aluminium shafts 30" long with 100gr points is suited more for 36~45# bows.

So the arrows are way too stiff for your bow. Also because thumb release is cleaner/oscillates the arrow less than fingers you arguably need an even softer arrow. While thumb technique can compensate for spine mis match to some degree, shooting arrows twice as stiff as required isn't going to go well.

Try drawing farther if you can, draw slowly until you feel the 'collar' between the arrow shaft and point on your thumb. Increasing from 22#@27" to 30#@31" is like increasing the energy in your bow by 50% so is well worth doing.

If after drawing as far as you can the arrows still feel too stiff you can try putting on heavier arrow points to soften the arrow spine.

Thank you so much for the advice!
It really helps me to figure out my problems!
I measured my draw length by measure my both arms, and divide to 2.5.
I am able to draw my hand little behind my ear, but I do not know exact length of my full draw.

I made a mistake.  The shafts are 1913, not 1916.  1913 is 8.3 grains per inch...

Could you explain to me how you calculated the shaft and ponits?  I checked the Easton chart for shaft, but I do not know how to come up with shaft + point is suited what # bow.

Mule wrote:

What's your draw length?

My draw length is about 27.3"

Mule wrote:

It's difficult to say without seeing in person but the feather shouldn't be touching your hand at all. As for hitting your bow, it's possible the arrows aren't spine matched for your bow

I shot arrows to 15yard target.  I am still working on my form, and grouping.
I think it was my grip that caused the fletches cut my knuckle.  Today, every time I shot, i made sure that I had a proper grip on my bow hand, and no more cut from fletches.

I use Easton xx75 aluminum platinum plus.  The size is 1916.  Its 10 grains per inch, and the shaft is 30".  I do not know whether this is enough information to tell the shaft is wrong for my bow. 
Any advice on this?

Thank you, Mule.

20

(7 replies, posted in Technique)

Yes, its just a movie and I was sure its impossible.  At least that guy try to shoot like the movie smile

Haha, I do not know whether its a good technique or not, but it looks fancy.

Mule wrote:

Raise your nocking point, bluelake suggests nocking 1.5 inches above the top of the grip and that works for me

Thank you for the reply, Mule.
I did make the nocking point follwed bluelake's direction, and its 1.5" above the top of the grip.
Maybe its my grip that causes the problem.
To clear it, the feather touches only top of the first knuckle of my thumb.  When you grip the bow, the first knuckle of thumb that points toward the sky.
Ill shoot more and see what causes the problem.

So touching, and damaging the leather part of the bow is normal? 
When I nock arrows, 1 feather is pointed out horizontally from the bow, and that is my cock feather.  Other 2 feathers are pointed toward the bow.  I believe this is correct way to nock arrows?  Or it doesn't really matter?
Any advice on this?

Here is a picture that you can see my thumb and damaged part.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/gorillajin/E12B9D7B-1798-4283-B322-98BFD78923E0.jpg

I shot about 4 hours today at a local archery range.  It was a lot of fun.
1 missing arrows and 3 broken fletches arrows.

Here are little information of my bow and arrows.
Kaya ktb 30#
Easton xx75 aluminum shaft with 4" right helical fletches and 100g field ponit.
I am a right hand shooter, and using a thumb ring.

When I shoot, I can heard the fletches touched the bow.  I noticed that the leather right above the handle ripped little bit.  What am I doing wrong?  What caused the fletches ripped the leather?
I also noticed that the fletch touched my bow arom thumb, but its not always.  Sometimes it touched, sometimes didn't.  I had to use a band aid to protect my thumb.
I did not have this problems with 3" short vanes, but with 4" feathers .

Any advice on this?

Thank you.

Wow, that is a good looking thumb ring!
I made my own thumb ring too.  This is my third one, and the best one so far.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/gorillajin/15EA837C-7E96-423A-BA1D-4CD77FE19790.jpg

25

(7 replies, posted in Technique)

tonygt19 wrote:

I noticed his arrow was unfletched. That would be one requirement to shooting a curving arrow because a normally fletched arrow spins so any internal  forces in the structure of the arrow or imparted by the shot would be doing 360's around the axis of the arrow. That would probably just cause a slow wobbly arrow. It's really hard to shoot an unfletched arrow straight with a normal release (mongol or mediterranean style) on a non-center shot bow. But it can be done. You would have to twist the bow handle away from the arrow rest and tilt the bow down slightly as you draw and release. If you manage to align the arrow with its flight path during the release it would fly straight. Then if the arrow were made so that it is more flexible to one side than the other and it rotates slowly once in flight it might take a curved path. But I can't imagine a shooter being able to control that so I would vote no. Not possible. I saw the movie. Twisting the string only presses the arrow against the bow harder as you draw. Actually a bit useful on horseback.

Oh, thank you for the detail explanations!
I did not know he was using an arrow without fletchs. 
Tilting the bow to counter clock wise, and down technique is a necessary movement for shooting a korean bow, no?  I have watched a lot of youtube videos, and I have seen many of people use the technique.  I am not quite sure what is the benefit of doing it, but I am trying to shoot arrows with the technique smile