Search options (Page 5 of 7)

It is quite difficult to get a textured material like wood really smooth, at least such small and curved parts.
You could make the inner diameter a bit bigger, and glue leather on the inside.
Or some similar material which could distribute the pressure more easily.

As said, I'm going to give it a try with my wife's phone soon (meaning, around Christmas ...).
But there is another catch which is not stated in the app or documentation- you need to make the measurement beside the bow, or behind.
With acoustics, you can't ignore signal runtime, and in-between or at-target measurement would require a different runtime correction.

Since it seems to fit here somehow:
Anybody aware of the free "Bowometry" App for Android devices ?
It measures arrow speed (and energy) using acoustics, and runs on Android devices like smartphones and tablets.

I tested it last week with an older tablet, with mixed results, most probably because of the poor microphone of the device.
Readings of 10 shots with a 30# "Carbon Forever" and 380gn carbon arrows were either about 120fps, 150fps, or 200fps.
Not really conclusive, but I try my wife's smartphone as soon as I can.

I read reports of others, claiming results quite close to "real" archery Chronographs.

Any idea about the age of this points ?
Iron artifacts are usually not dateable, but perhaps by surrounding natural or cultural artifacts.

Had the Korean arrow head sizes and weights been standardized in former times ?

A bit corroded, but interesting.
The tang on the broadhead type (right) suggests it was used with bamboo shaft, right ?
At least for the bodkin type tip  I assume a military use.

Do you know the approximate weight of the original (uncorroded) tip ?
European medieval arrow heads for war used to have about 250 ... 400 gn, if I remember correctly.

I followed a discussion in a local forum, with guys building english warbows and arrows for "fun".
The bows had "only" 70 to 100#, and the arrows 1200 to 1500 gn.
For lack of historical armaments, they use decommisioned traffic signs for testing ...

Quite good. One can order sets of 6 shafts, spined and weighted to +-0.5 gramm.
I ordered two sets, requesting the same weight range.
Checked them, and they were all within tolerance.
I broke a few of them, but the rest are my tournament arrows.
And the arrows are good enough for  me (as advanced beginner) I see no difference in grouping, compared to Carbon arrows.

Not yet, but I plan to do this soon.
But a fellow archer at my club shoots them, and is quite satisfied.

This seems to be a common problem with carbon arrows.
The "Maximal Carbon Arrow EDGE" (mentioned in another thread) and certain Njora shaft are a few I know to be at least 33".

Arrowforge.de is a quite good supplier, but he has no english version of his site AFAIK.
Peter Dekker at manchuarchery.org sells bamboo shafts, but if I can choose, I prefer the closest supplier ...

Not sure about the situation in Sweden (where you are from, if I understand correctly).

I am still in the "setup" phase, which means I shoot a low draw weight (25..30#), "technique over distance/power".
And for tournaments, I use cedar (Port Orford Cedar), having a weight about 20 gramms for 32" and 35-40# bare shafts.
Arrow weight is then 24 gramm (about 375 grain), compared to 30..32 gramm for bamboo.

It's my experience, too, that bowyers often make concessions here, in particular when their reputation is at stake.
I followed a case in another forum, where a guy crashed 3 Kaya Black Shadow bows in a row (each after about four weeks, in a period of a half year).
It turned out - in the forum discussion -he drew the bow to 34", clearly beyond specs.
Freddie nonetheless replaced them for free, without asking back ...

Small update to my WF bow.
I had been participating in a 3D tournament last week with said White Feathers bow.
Quite an interesting experience, and I met a few other thumb archers.
Some relevant stuff:

1.
A very small number of participants in the horsebow class (about 10 at all), just me with a Korean style bow.
The others, being mostly from the same club, had Robert Vegh Scythian bows.
I was lucky to team up with one of those "Scythians", who had a 50# bow with bamboo arrows.
He is practicing thumb draw for some years.

2.
After a lame start (have been a bit nervous, and was my first 3D tournament), I could keep up quite well, being on par with my Scythian group member.
That doesn't say too much about the bow, though.

3.
The other group members (being already in their sixties) had trouble pulling the wood/bamboo arrows shot by both horsebows.
(Wood/bamboo arrows were mandatory for the horsebow class.)
I found that penetration with my 30# bow and his 50# Scythian were approximately the same, significantly more than the Carbon arrows of the BHR (Bow Hunter Recurve) group members.

4.
Another group member shot a TD recurve of a renown European bowyer, costing about 4..5 times as much as my bow.
The bow had 28#, he had Carbon arrows of approx. 300..350 grain.
Watching him shooting, the arrows arced visibly at 25 yard and beyond, much more than my bow with heavier arrows.

My conclusions from the tournament, and from similar observations at my club - White Feather bows are about on par with Kaya and Nomad KTBs, and matching the efficiency of mid or high range recurve bows.

Concerning durability, I can't say much yet, having the bow less than a year.
Going to report back here anything interesting.

AFAIK the Turkish style is, beside thumb draw, somehow similar to the mediterranean, with anchor points in the face.
That means the draw lengths are similar as well, with an 28" average.
So, you will need a bow that allows for the Korean draw length first.
Apart from that, I think one can get use to the different grip, albeit it does IMHO not allow the exact same gripping.
But the forward bulge gives you a large "lever" for Korean style twist.

I tried Hungarian and Scythian style bows, with the grip bulging backward rather than forward.
Results were mixed, because the Hungarian is a bit heavy for me (45#), and the Scythian stacks terribly at 28".
What I view as a advantage - one can easily hold several arrows in the bow hand, without rattling or affecting the shot.
See the Kassai videos as an extreme example ...

Had some ideas about it.
How do you store the bow ?
Does it get direct or indirect sunlight ?
I see plastic nocks on some of my arrows turning whitish after about two years, stored near a window facing north.
A common effect, easily seen with cheaper plastic garden furniture.