SOLD and shipped

I am very reluctantly putting up my Ming Moon 4 Chinese traditional bow for sale. This is a 54 “ (braced about 51”) 54# at 31” draw. This bow is built much like the Saluki hybrid bows. That is it has a back and belly of  quality fiberglass. These layers sandwich two laminations of bamboo. The bamboo laminations separate in the middle to sandwich a hardwood riser which makes for a nonbending handle. They also separate at the ends to sandwich a long curved wedge of mulberry which makes for the nonbending siyahs. This bow also has an additional backing layer of snakeskin. It is beautifully finished. This is a very smooth, stable and fast bow (190ft/sec+ with 9gn/lb arrows) which is made by an upcoming bowyer in China and is imported by a fast rising expert in Asian archery , Dr. Justin Ma.
The price for this bow $305 firm+ shipping (UPS ground US only). I can only accept payment via paypal. More details on this bow can be seen at http://www.cinnabarbow.com/marinerbows/mingmoon4.html
This bow would be an excellent choice for hunting or mounted archery for archers used to heavier draw weights.

Yes, that was my first impression as well. A circular movement of a point light (the nock)  rotating around an  axis of flight would appear as a sine wave when viewed at right angles to the flight path. But my camera was recording from above and behind the flight. Then the nock rotating off axis would draw a spiral path.  When I looked closely at frames 1:58-2:07 in the second video it seems that the nock doesn’t rotate off center.  Even while the arrow is rotating the oscillations remain horizontal. I didn’t expect this.

gpang788 wrote:

Really cool photo  smile

At first glance, the flight path looked really random with all that paradox going on.

Upon careful examination, I do notice a pattern beginning to emerge. I can see 2 1/4 ?? oscillations leading up to impact.

Always imagined that for a 50 m shot, arrow should oscillate more?

Gpang788,
My mistake for not defining my terms. An oscillation can refer to a single wave in a series or the whole series of a single frequency. I meant the latter. I think there are two superimposed frequencies of oscillation being traced by the lit nock in a single flight in my photo. The longer frequency oscillation is due to the phenomenon that causes the archer’s paradox. When a long flexible shaft is propelled by a force from the rear its first reaction will be to flex as the front resists moving while the rear accelerates forward. This is most easily seen in the atlatl, the predecessor to the arrow.  See < http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkK2vEZ5bTk >. This is especially true when the front and rear are not in perfect alignment with the force applied. That oscillation is drawn as wave form #1.  The second oscillation is a higher frequency waveform which I believe is caused by the thumb release. The string escapes more quickly than the thumb can move itself out of the way and so goes around the thumb to some extent. That causes a second rhythmic sideways displacement as seen here. <  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96KGWC0PB6s > This sideways frequency is higher with more waves put into the arrow. Watch the string ‘s sideways movement closely. This I think corresponds to the drawn waveform #2 in my photo. If you put both waveforms into one line it would look like a string of W’s and M’s rather than a simple sine wave. That’s the pattern in the path the lit nock draws.

Gpang788,
So, I struggled with a way to photograph the wiggle in the arrow flight that a lit nock reveals. I put my camera over my left shoulder after dark. It is about 9PM with a moonlit sky. The target is several bales of straw with a paper plate pinned to the front. It is lit with LED lawn lights. The target is about 50 m which is a distance I don't normally shoot at. Camera is exposing for 20 seconds at f11 and ISO 200. During that time lapse exposure I take a quick shot. The lit nock traces a path in the scene. This is a first attempt. Lots of room for improvement in both the photography and in shooting skills. I can already see two superimposed oscillations in the nock's path  toward the target (which I failed to hit). The shorter oscillation is likely to be the string's displacement over my thumb in my release. The second longer period oscillation is probably the archer's paradox caused by the arrow tip's resting inertia causing a flex in the arrow as the string drives the arrow forward. The technique Storm described would minimize the longer oscillation and straighten the arrow path. Me getting smoother and more deft with the thumb release would minimize the shorter oscilllation.

Gpang788,
Ha ha, all nocks should be lit! I shoot at dusk because I have a long commute to get home and I never have much sunlight left. In the dimming light I can see exactly how my arrows are flying and where they hit. I can't tell you how many arrows I've recovered  buried  in the grass  that I never would have found if their nocks weren't looking like little glow worms in the thatch. The lit nocks are expensive now but the prices will come down because they are LED's and that industry is moving forward quickly.

This technique won't correct bad or inconsistent form but your  arrows will fly straighter to their random destinations.

I've been shooting the 45#@28" Hwarang for about a year now with incorrectly spined arrows. At 30 m I can put most of my arrows in an 8 inch diameter paper plate stuck to a straw bale with three chopsticks. Just barely, thanks to the fletching. But the arrows often stick out at slightly different angles. I didn't notice this until I started using blunt tips. With points the arrows went all the way through the bale to hide in the grass. The arrows are correctly spined for my 70 lb bow. That one is hard to twist but I don't need to because the spine corrects for the off center arrow rest. With the two twists, rotary and vertical on the 45 Lb bow the arrows shoot correctly out of both bows.

With the 45 lb bow I grip mildly hard but the bow limbs are easy to twist. Same with the vertical tilt forward. Like Storm indicated the pressure has to be exactly the right amount and be consistent with each shot. Too much or too little rotary pressure would not correctly align the tip to nock arrow flight. Too much top to bottom pressure seems to make the arrow dive. I've only nailed it a few times out of many dozens of shots. I think this will take months of daily practice to get it to work consistently. And it will be different for each bow. It doesn't work well on the Salukis. They are designed not to allow limb twist.

I've often wondered why the Hwarang bows, as long as they've been around are still made to be unforgiving bows. Several reviews have mentioned that. Now I think they are made that way so advanced archers can apply tweaks in the draw if they have taken the time to learn to do that.


gpang788 wrote:

tonygt19,

Very interesting - especially with the lit nocks smile

How was your grouping at 30ms?

Did you have to grip really hard or just mildly hard?

I assume to get a consistently tight grouping you would also have to
apply the same amount of grip / torque very time?

Storm,
Well I’ll be damned. It works!  I spent much of Friday evening twisting the hell out of my 45#@28” YMG Hwarang laterally and forward as you described while shooting at 30 meters. The LED lit nocks I use to check flight out of the bow flew much straighter, some like bullet tracers. They normally wiggle out of the bow and stabilize at about 20 meters due to the helical fletching. The Hwarang was performing like a centershot bow.
I think I understand what you’re doing now. You’re creating a dynamic centershot arrow release with this bow handle twisting technique. The dynamic is a second force vector applied to the arrow nock by the twisted limbs releasing their stored energy. It is at a right angle to the main force vector applied by the limbs returning to brace position when you release the string. It has to be applied precisely in the same 10-20 milliseconds that the arrow nock is still in contact with the string after release or it has no effect. You have to move the launching arrow nock about 1.25 cm or half an inch to the right before it leaves the bow. That will put the back of the arrow in alignment with the path of the front of the arrow as it leaves the bow. The arrow will fly straight regardless of its spine. It just requires a little twist of the back of the bow handle to the right during that fleeting instant. The problem is that no human being can contract their muscles that fast no matter how strong or quick they are. But you can make the bow move that fast by pre-twisting at full draw and  suddenly releasing stored elastic energy in the twist. I was wrong before about the stored energy being in the connective tissue of the hand and wrist. It’s in the bow , in the twist maintained by holding your anchor at full draw.

storm wrote:

You must be strong every step of the way, and try to push with the top of your palm and pull with the little finger, rotating the bow forward. In Arab archery it is said that the lower syiah should strike your shoulder after the arrow is released. Strangely enough, I improved my accuracy with Korean bows a graet deal just by doing this forward rotation or push. Push is actually not the right ord, because, as you noticed, you should not actively push, put put tension in the grip, both forward and lateral. Still, the forward tension is much more important I feel, but it cannot function without the lateral one. I still have not found the answer here. Maybe you have seen this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbraY11ZpmM
It is visible that with more forward tension, the bow also rotates more laterally. Unfortunately I did not had the time to investigate further...or to shoot as much as I would like.

storm wrote:

Yes, but only a bit, and especially with low spine arrows. The amount is much less than they tend to go to the right. Thomas has a video on youtube where he shows how to grip the bow, away from the forearm - I think it is about Kaya ktb. Just squeeze the bow a bit more and torque is created as you draw. You don't need to actively rotate the wrist.

I made this movie last year ... maybe it helps to visualize the motion:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9pcei7cRcU

Storm,
This is an intriguing idea. It does seems to me the only way one could hope to apply torque quickly enough to affect the arrow as it leaves the bow is to pre-apply it in the grip. I notice  your shooter in the video is holding his hand in a knuckles forward position as if throwing a punch. That takes a good deal more strength to hold the bow during the draw than letting it rest in the cup of the hand. But it would pre-apply torque that would be released with connective tissue in your hand snapping back much more quickly than you could manage with conscious muscle movement. Excellent video.

34

(19 replies, posted in Technique)

Didn't mean to sound critical. Your full draw looks very good and not unbalanced at all. I had the same problem with slipping thumbrings when I first started. Found I was using the ring incorrectly,i.e. I was putting the string entirely on the hard surface of the ring's tab. I learned from Kay's thumbring book that the string should actually rest between the upper lip of the ring's cylinder and the inner skin of your thumb. Pinched there it doesn't slide. There are a series of slow motion videos done by the Romanian guys that show the thumbring release from every angle possible. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgSGvLq3Fjc
You need to see the list of videos and watch several to get the complete picture.

35

(19 replies, posted in Technique)

Either you're practicing some extreme string walking or your nock point is a bit high. It doesn't look like you're using the bottom limb at all. Do you have any photos of you at full draw?

Thomas and Raven,
That's very impressive. Were you each using a 45# @28 inch Hwarang? At what draw length were you releasing? What was the weight per pound of the arrows? This isn't about likes or dislikes. I'm just trying to iron out the numbers. With the exception of the Romanian guys few members post any actual data. Lots of subjective and anecdotal information is offered on both the Hwarang and the Salukis. I've found both the Hwarang and Saluki to be superb performers and their performance deserves to be quantified. Each of these bows are hybrids of modern materials and ancient design. So their comparison makes sense. It's frankly a little frustrating to me that my own skill levels and arrow selection haven't come close to squeezing out the top performance of either bow, not even close. But it's fun watching the chronograph numbers climb, After a week of playing with the 70 lb bows these 45 and 47 lb bows feel like wet noodles. drawing comfortably behind the ear is now doable and the speeds are in the 210's for each. If I could find some bonafide flight arrows for these two we'd be off to the races,

Saluki 47lb@28" pic

I'm posting these preliminary numbers which may change soon because I've been too impatient to tune arrow spines to bows before shooting things past a chronograph.  I was pulling each bow to 30" with a thumbring. With the same 31" Carbon Tech Panther 40-80 helical fletched arrow the bows were virtually identical with the $470 Hwarang posting repeatable 201 ft/s and the $1000 Saluki posting 202 ft/s. The arrow had a very non aerodynamic blunt tip and weighed 28 grams or 432 grains. That's over 9 grains /lb for each bow. Without the feathers these arrows do not fly straight out of either bow. So with careful bare shaft tuning I'm convinced each bow could get into the 220 ft/s range. My release technique could also be better and draw should be increasing to 32 inches soon. That will add more speed.

39

(9 replies, posted in Bows)

Crazybamboo,
If the Kaya is 60# at 31" then it is less than 50 # @28".  If you could draw each bow back to 28 inches  the Hwarang would be much much faster than the Kaya because it will have more than 20 lbs additional force to impart to the arrow. Even if the two bows had the same draw weight the Hwarang is likely to be a bit faster because it is a better made bow. That being said if you are an adult male of average size and strength who is new to archery it is unlikely you could pull that 70# Hwarang comfortably to 28 inches.  The Kaya should be more than fast enough for anything you want to do especially if your goal is to perfect your form which will lead to both speed and accuracy. In fact if you are new to this type of archery most experienced archers would recommend you start with a 35# to 40 # @28 ".

40

(14 replies, posted in Bows)

Chadwck wrote:

Wow those are beautiful bows.

Yeah, Saluki's aren't hard on the eye but they are pretty hard on the wallet. What the Korean traditional bows lack in decoration they sure make up for in performance and price. You really can't go wrong with either. If you're interested there are a few more pics of both on my photo site. Just Google my forum name and "traditional archery".
Cheers,
tonygt19

41

(14 replies, posted in Bows)

Storm,
The 70lb Saluki is a 50 inch Turkish Hybrid. The Saluki hybrids vary in materials but this one uses two laminations of bamboo as a limb core, and black fiberglass backing. Lukas Novotny , the bowyer , wouldn't tell me what the belly material was as he prefers to keep that proprietary but it is not horn. It seems to be a type of fiberglass but not the same as the backing. Novotny was a glassblower before he became the Saluki Company so he may have access to exotic glass based materials or may have developed his own compression resistant flexible glass. He only said it took him a long time to get to this material. He also said he's developed some new material that is even better and is experimenting with it now.  The handle is Osage Orange with white faux inlay. The siyah core is maple. What ever he uses, the bow limbs bend the same  no matter how you try to torque or  press high or low on the handle while drawing. It's amazing how stable this thing is.

42

(14 replies, posted in Bows)

So finally got my two Salukis and have been comparing the 70 pounder to a 70 lb Hwarang. Using thumbring at 30 inches. The Saluki is easier to pull past 28 inches and yet is noticeably faster  than the Hwarang. Both bows are screamers and to be fair the Saluki did cost about 3X as much and took over a year to arrive. Haven't yet done a full force draw curve but the Saluki is pulling about 82 lbs at 30 while the Hwarang is closer to 85 -86. The Saluki seems to stack its draw weight closer to the beginning of the draw.

43

(33 replies, posted in Bows)

Storm,
Thank you for the comprehensive and very informative reply. The force draw curve you linked to does indeed tell the story.  The empirical curve (thick line) for the 50 lb bow appears to be absent but since the mathematical and empirical curves for the other five bows appear to be identical per bow it’s safe to assume the mathematical curve for the 50 lb bow will suffice for comparison. It shows force by the string increased toward the beginning of the draw on the longer bow while at full draw (and beyond) the draw force is the same  compared to the shorter bow. Concentrating the force toward the front of the draw is exactly what a compound bow does with cams and cables. There’s a lot more to think about and be written here but as you wrote this should be a separate topic. I don’t want to hijack this space from the original poster.
Cheers,
Tonygt19

44

(33 replies, posted in Bows)

Storm,
At the risk of getting off topic I'd like to ask some questions about your comment on the pull of the longer jang-gung bow as opposed to the regular jung-gung bow. Do you think the efficiency of the arrow cast is also better in the longer jang-gung as compared to the jung-gung of similar weight?(possibly because of shorter limb travel?). If a bow of especially high drawweight, say 90 lbs at 28", were used do you think there would be any advantages in stringing, stability, and longer life of the bow in the longer jang-gung version? I realize this may call for some speculation on your part but I'd be interested in your take on this nontheless.
Cheers,
Tonygt19

45

(35 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

Does any commercial archery company make arrows spined for a 90 to 100 lb traditional bow anymore? I've heard Easton used to make aluminum shafts for very high weight bows but the market now is probably miniscule. I've also heard of individuals slipping a thin weaker spined shaft into a larger diameter heavy spined shaft to combine their stiffness for very heavy bows. Anyone experienced with that?
Cheers,
Tonygt19

46

(6 replies, posted in Bows)

Ti

raven wrote:

In another thread, Mr. Duvernay was commenting on the tiller of the Traditional Korean bow. It sounds to be that a horn bow can be tillered in such a way, that when strung, the string will not be centered but fall in line with the edge of the bow. Either right or left handed.

It seems obvious the benefit of a bow tillered in such a way as this, and I would love to see some more discussion about it.

I was hoping someone could discuss any experience they have had, and the change in arrow spine that would come with a bow tillered in such a way?

Also, is this something that synthetic materials cannot handle? Is it possible to buy a Hwarang tillered in such a way?

Is this something that can be done with an existing bow?

Thank you,
Joseph

Raven,
Adam Karpowitz mentions an arrow sided tiller briefy in his book on Ottoman Turkish bow design, pg 119. Some think that the Turkish design strongly influenced the Korean Hornbow. The obvious thought is that an off center tiller would render a bow that is somewhat center shot and therefore capable of using a weaker spined arrow which should be lighter and fly farther. In fact Turkish bow design tended toward maximizing flight after being made obsolete as a war weapon by firearms. He dismisses this though in favor of the idea that both finger and thumbring shooting tend to apply sideways movement to the string on release. This he says can result in the string coming to rest at the brace position slightly away from center and from the arrow. He speculates that this may be the reason for the special tiller. But he doesn't elaborate.

Cheers,
Tony

47

(35 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

bluelake wrote:

Tony, I'm assuming you meant "YMG" up above.

Thomas,
Maybe I'm remembering wrong. I was thinking YMG does use real bark on their bows but limits their Hwarangs to 70 lbs. These are the ones you normally sell, is that correct? They come without markings which is forgivable given their awesome performance. I was assuming Warbow made the point of real bark because he had gotten SMG which seems to have a broader spectrum of bows to put real bark on this special order. I probably read too much into the remark, if so mea culpa.
BTW the 70 pounder I recently bought from you is a monster. It punches a blunt hunting tip on a  carbon tech arrow entirely through a straw bale. Difficult to use on the horse though. Not used to the weight yet.
It does seem to have a slight off tiller toward the arrow which apparently does not affect the performance. This slight off tiller thing is an intriguing concept which gets mention in Karpowitz's book on Ottoman Turkish bows as well as in this forum. Why do the bowmakers do it? Does it compensate for string oscillation caused by the thumb release?
Cheers,
Tony

48

(35 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

WarBow wrote:

I am putting together a group purchase for heavy-weight Hwarang bows (with real bark).  Our group need one more person to make the purchase possible.  Anyone interested in a 90# to 100# Hwarang bow?

WarBow,
I'd be interested but need some more info. I assume these are SMG bows since you added "real bark" which SMG doesn't normally use. And is the draw weight at 28 inches draw?  Is this an export or Korean tiller? Is overdraw, say to 32 Inches possible? In a 90 lb bow ( which is the weight I would be interested in ) that should put draw weight well over 100 lbs. most important what is the projected cost?

is that 40 at 28"
Is it tillered for right handed thumbring draw only?

50

(28 replies, posted in Bows)

~HUN~ wrote:

Justin, I bet your friend was disappointed but it may all work out for the best if he feels he needs a stronger bow. I'm sure this was just one of those freak accidents.

I very quickly wore through the thin leather arrow pass on my Hwarang (mixture of finding the correct arrows and poor form) it was gone in no time. I glued a piece of polished cow horn in its place.

I'll be able to offer some feedback shortly, regarding Hwarang and Kaya as my friend has just bought a Kaya.

Hun,
I had a similar problem on my 45lb Hwarang probably for the same reasons. I found a 1x3 inch leather piece at 3Rivers Archery for a less than elegant but functional fix. Shown at http://tonygt19.smugmug.com/Archery/Dyn … ;k=Spv7ndp .
Other than that and an easily fixed too thick serving problem the bow has been a joy to shoot.
Cheers,
Tony
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