51

(9 replies, posted in Thumb Rings)

tonygt19 wrote:

From the photo you embedded it looks like you made a beautiful thumb ring but you designed it to function incorrectly. If you are positioning the string between the black ridge and the lighter tab on the ring you will be putting all the draw pressure on the last thumb bone. So the pressure is mostly applied to your thumb print area. That would be extremely painful even with a moderately heavy draw weight. The thumb ring is designed with an oval opening so that it can be slipped over the oval shaped end of the first thumb bone (the one attached to your hand). But when twisted 90 degrees into its functional position it cannot be pulled off without crushing the flange of the bone. That would take well over a hundred pounds of pull even for dainty bones. Nearly all the pressure from drawing the bowstring should be on the 2 red areas which are shown in the photoshopped x-ray I attached. If you pinch those two areas with your other hand and pull as hard as you can you will feel no discomfort. That's more or less the way a correctly fitted thumb ring should feel. This works best when the string is pulled by the upper lip of the ring and slightly above the joint. I pull a 70lb at 28" Hwarang well past 85lbs with no thumb discomfort. Bending your thumb and holding it with your index finger is really only to lock to draw. If your thumb ring can come off at all in its shooting position none of this works. Hope this helps.

Okay, I think I understand.  I'm gathering that I should put pressure away from the joint and more toward the second bone toward the hand.  This would explain why my comfortable rings (though they don't fit too well and fly off) are different than the other rings.  I tried what Thomas said, and it helps SIGNIFICANTLY, so I may try to fashion a new ring with this in mind.

52

(33 replies, posted in Bows)

a1111318 wrote:

I bought the KTB 60# from thelongbowshop.com in UK. After my first string it, I found there is the issue of the alignment of the string on the top limb.  The bottom limb is ok.

At present, it seems not affect my shooting. Some of my friends says it will be worse and worse. It will damage the bow and maybe will hurt myself in the future.

However, some other person says it is the new design for the KTB and will be easier to aim and shooting.

I also asked my seller thelongbowshop.com, they told me their bow has the same problem but not affect shooting at all.

So, pls confirm it is the defect for the bow making or the new design for the KTB or something else???

1. I wouldn't order from thelongbowshop.com anymore, they don't seem to care about your issue, and are most likely lying to prevent a refund/swap.  I've worked in commissioned retail sales long enough to see through this garbage, and it's sad that companies rely on this deceiving technique :-\.

2. Your limbs are probably torque during draw.... have you lied it down on a flat surface to check the symmetry?  From my experience with this issue, it should start rubbing a lot more on the one bow nock (the bad side).  If it is an issue, I would make them do a refund.

I honestly wouldn't be concerned about it breaking at all from this issue, and would ONLY worry about it making the string miss the rubber pad which will flip the string around (and get your hand pretty good).  This has happened to me with a pvc bow I made, and it wasn't a good time, but it wasn't a catastrophic failure either.  However, if you pay that much for a product at retail, then you should get a capable product that performs as advertised and expected.  Just my $0.02

Anyway, hopefully you get it all figured out and get a refund or it fixed.  Goodluck!

53

(9 replies, posted in Thumb Rings)

So I've made 6 billiard ball thumbrings now, and a few of them are pretty good, some look amazing, but most are terrible.  The pain is on the inside of my thumb right at the joint (where the ring is pressing).  At first I thought the weight wasn't being distributed correctly, and made it more contoured which helped, but still painful.  Then I tried to make a wider band so it didn't have as much "play", but looking at other thumbrings that are production or antiques, it seems they didn't use extremely wide bands.

This leaves me to question what the problem is, and thought that you guys may have ran into this before.  Here's the latest ring, and it seems to fit perfectly until I pull the string.....which causes significant pain.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1Cr9lbJxb3g/UmMbB3xaisI/AAAAAAAAANQ/oz4ejLOSxH4/w440-h330-p/IMAG0186.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wJPif_nmdR8/UmMbDx8gCpI/AAAAAAAAANY/IcuDlqZ7SbA/w440-h330-p/IMAG0187.jpg

This ring is slightly too large, and can slip off of my thumb with enough work, but is only a millimeter too large I think.  Thanks in advance for any info!

WillScarlet wrote:

An all wood bow should be unstrung when not in actual use. You be the judge as to HOW to unstring your bow, but I'd use a bow-stringer. Laminated (with glass) bows can be left strung if being used almost daily, but I'd suggest unstringing if not.

Thanks!  I haven't ran I to stringing problems myself, and do it very symmetrically.  I am fairly strong, and string it slightly different than most people.  Left leg over the grip (apex during stringing), right shin behind the bottom nock (as close as I can get to the edge), and with my right hand holding the string attached to the bottom limb, I pull the high limb with my left hand (opened hand).  I think this should prevent any torquing because of the distributed contact points, and the open hand should prevent torque.  What do you think?

Also, I see a lot of people (60 viewers so far) looking at this.  Jump in and tell me what you think! :]

Let me start off by saying I haven't shot a variant of a wood bow in YEARS (I'm thinking like almost 15 years).  It seems a new school of thought has popped up within the archery community that states "unstringing and restringing your bow between shoots will torque the limbs).  I grew up doing this method, and I feel "dirty" if I don't.  This is chatter that I've picked up over on archerytalk, and I'm sure everyone here has seen the crazy tales from over there.

Even so, I'm not familiar with bamboo as a core material, so should I unstring it between shoots if I shoot daily (or maybe once every two days sometimes due to weather)?  I can't comprehend not unstringing it, but what do you guys think?  Not just about the mostly synthetic hwarang and KTB, but other wooden bows too.

56

(7 replies, posted in Bows)

Has anyone used the air bladder method personally?  Does it smell bad?  I work on longbows for fun, and this is a neat idea, but I wouldn't want it smelling up the house.

57

(7 replies, posted in Bows)

roninpoon wrote:

thank you tonygt19 i want to make korean short bows i have good quality bamboo but i don't know how to make please send me video link. also can we use other glue like fevicol maxbond superglue etc to join bamboo. we dont have croaker

I'm sure Thomas will chime in here about the dvd sale link (he's Bluelake).  I have a lot of experience with bamboo, and feel like I could throw in some input.  Bamboo is EXTREMELY fibrous, and faster glues will simply not work well on it (it sort of wicks it away in my experience).  Epoxy works extremely well in some cases, and so does silicone adhesive, but I wouldn't use a hard adhesive on limbs.  I suppose that's not a lot of help, but definitely rule out your regular glues.  I have worked on longbows, and successfully backed them (with various materials) using Titebond II.... it is soft enough to not crack, but is also the strongest wood glue I've ever come across (I don't count gorilla glue because it cracked on me).

Anyway, good luck!

58

(0 replies, posted in Accessories)

I've had a really tough time trying to find a quiver for my bows (and upcoming hwarang).  I literally searched for 5 hours last night, but found very few that stood out to me.  At first I wanted a back quiver, but then, the more I thought about it, I realized that I hold, in some form or fashion, my arrows (belt-loop and pocket, hand...etc).  So I'll probably come up with some type of sash to hold an extra arrow or two while shooting at my target, but I am wanting to maintain a set of a dozen or so (maybe less).

I think a jungtong would fit my needs perfectly (as just an arrow protector for on the go), but I can't seem to find them online.  Some people make them out of PVC, and I am extremely efficient in the DIY area, but I don't like the idea of using PVC.

If I can't find one for sale, I'll try to make one out of bamboo (if I can find some big enough), but I don't know the exact details of the construction.  I would think it should have the cap on a fob-like tether so it doesn't get lost, and I would think that the interior should be covered around the top....but is that it?  Any insight would be greatly appreciated!  Thanks a bunch!

59

(16 replies, posted in Thumb Rings)

I finally got around to buying a cueball.  I didn't know they only cost like $3.00.  I went a bit too narrow on the first one, and it sort of hurts after 20-30 shots, but the newer one (the wide and fat one) is fantastic.  I didn't realize how important it was to make it wide.  I'm learning what I prefer as far as rings... shorter, fatter, and significant concave groove.  I tried the whole grinding out a vertical notch technique, but I don't really like it near as much as the groove.  I'm still learning though *shrug*.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v313/reboot_zero/IMAG0005.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v313/reboot_zero/IMAG0012.jpg

60

(16 replies, posted in Thumb Rings)

I've been lurking for a little while, and figured I should probably post something.  I generally use leather, but decided to make a new one out of a PVC joint.  I had some requirements for it, as my thumb has been hurting, so it was a lot of trial and error.  I decided on a modified shape...mostly because I wanted a lot of tactical feedback without the rubbing (I'd shoot without anything if I could).  Also, I went with a wider ring profile than what I normally use, because I seem to be adjusting my other rings after every 10 shots or so, and thought that this would help (so far it seems to be doing the trick).  It was actually tough to make one so danty that felt great with my 68# bow.

Any advice to make it better would be great... I'm still learning how to make rings, and don't have a production ring to go off of.  Someday, when I'm not a broke college student, I'll own one that's a legitimate profile in horn or bone... hopefully.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wLCphgG_0o8/UiGowIdNn4I/AAAAAAAAAJ4/ok9z06Rutpw/s576/IMAG0071.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CThVqCkKw9s/UiGox4xkYmI/AAAAAAAAAKA/V8ELN8gVM28/s576/IMAG0072.jpg

In this last picture, you can see how I tried to move the ring away from my joint (I hurt it...non-archery related).  I'm really liking it so far, but may change where it bends later.  I know it looks like it's at an angle, but it's actually curved, so the recess lines up with my thumb when drawing.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EPiC73K-H9U/UiGoxZg7xqI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/i3ro76rs6tA/s576/IMAG0073.jpg

bluelake wrote:
misterwonky wrote:

Thanks for the answers so far!

I suppose my only real concern now is delamination.  It is really to my understanding that this is a problem with some of SMGs (only one review talked about it), and a few of the Kayas (especially the Kahn).  I'll continue to be optimistic about the YMGs for now.  Thanks again for all of the answers!

In my experience, rare delamination of YMGs came almost exclusively from user error; specifically, flexing an unstrung bow in the opposite direction.

Ouch, that makes me cringe.  Why would anyone ever mistreat their bow?  As far as the YMGs, I'm not finding any documented case of delamination.  I'm sure they're out there, but if they're rare enough to be so under the radar, then it's rare enough to not be concerned about it.  Thanks for the replay!

Thanks for the answers so far!

What do you mean it "sets"?  Do you mean a type of shape retention?  I don't really mind stacking that high, but was going to go for something like a 55# @ 28".  I suppose I didn't realize that the bow is so synthetic; I've only used and tilled bows out of wood (oak mostly), and I've learned from experience that the backing is probably the most important part...without it there is immediate catastrophic failure, but with the use of full synthetic, I suppose the birch coming up isn't even an issue...I was concerned about safety, not cosmetic.

I suppose my only real concern now is delamination.  It is really to my understanding that this is a problem with some of SMGs (only one review talked about it), and a few of the Kayas (especially the Kahn).  I'll continue to be optimistic about the YMGs for now.  Thanks again for all of the answers!

sissara wrote:

Hi MW,
I experience a few problems on many modern material, traditional korean bows I handled. Some of them are SMG and some are YMG I think these problems are not generalized as they seems to be specific to that particular bow. They are:
One of heavy used bow has delarmination between core and belly material.
Many of them has rubber bridges flew off. So I had to put a replacement rubber bridges or thick leather pads.
Low poundage bows are susceptible to set.
High poundage bows start stacking at 31". They are good at 32", just not very smooth draw as ones expected.

One thing you should aware of is the birch backing do not provide physical support to the limbs. They are just cosmetic and their traditional function is protecting the sinew back from moisture. The modern material bows do not require birch bark. If you have one, they may peel off if you bump the limbs with hard surface and it is easily to fix. They do not simply peel off by backing extension. Personally, I found fabric/synthetic backings are very easy to peel out and replaced by your favorite material.

Thanks a lot Mule, that's awesome information.  I saw that graph, but I think it was when I roamed a bunch of the other forums....and I guess I didn't see it as a Korean bow.  I'm still blown away at the amount of energy these things can store.  I wasn't aware that SMG has acknowledged the problems with the backing.  I have efficient knowledge of backing bows and working on primitives, so I think I could repair it if I ever have to.  I can't deny that it would be a long-term concern for me, though.

I have had a bow that got weaker with time, though, it wasn't very significant (dropped maybe 7-10# after HEAVY usage).  Ideally, I would get a 55#, and TRY to learn the traditional form of shooting.  So it looks like it should scale to about 70# at extended draw.  It should still be really efficient after a lot of use (I think anything over 50# is a good power).

Anyway, thanks for the response!

So I've been shooting since the age of 4, and a lot of that has been off of the knuckle, but my past bows, however, aren't anything similar to a Korean bow.  I currently don't have a bow, and the bow I purchase will be my EVERYDAY bow that will be shot for a few hours a day.  I'm a one bow guy, and this will be used like a third arm.  I'm a list person, so here's a list of questions!  Even if someone just answers one, it'll be really helpful for me!  big_smile

-The profile is extreme....when the limbs get parallel, it looks like a lot of bad stuff is going to happen.  I know it's not, but how is the durability within the limbs?  Obviously, I expect them to be great at first, but how about YEARS down the road?

-Is there any quirky problems that I should be aware of before buying one?  As of right now, I know that the limb rests / string dampener come off sometimes when stringing the bow.  I also know that the arrow pads will wear down, but I am handy with leather work, and could redo it whenever I needed to.  That is the extent of the problems I know about, so if there's anything else that I left out, it's because I'm not aware of it.

-I've made longbows in the past, and am familiar with backings, but I have never seen a bow backed with birch.  It's beautiful, but will it last?  If not, then I would look at the cheaper bows with synthetic birch backing.

-I should shoot exactly 28" draw length.  If I get a 50# or a 55# at 28", what should I expect at the longer and more traditional draw?  I'm ASSUMING about 65# or so... is this a proper assumption?

-Lastly, could this bow be a reliable companion for many years if I shoot it daily?  I take care of everything I own, and it would be babied.

I think that's all.  I emailed Thomas a few times, and he was really helpful, but thought that the durability and "quirks" questions would be best asked within the community.  Anyway, thanks a bunch for your time!