1

(8 replies, posted in Arrows)

Mule, thank you for the subtitles. smile

2

(8 replies, posted in Arrows)

WOW! Quite different from the way I've seen Americans do it.  Very impressed as to the care in matching each shaft to one another. This is a great video.

3

(13 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

Welcome Tom. Mid Missouri, USA here.  Still working on my first purchase. Glad to have you aboard. Do you plan on hunting with a Korean style after working into higher poundage?

4

(1 replies, posted in General Interest)

Perhaps photo was taken BEFORE he came to full draw. sad

5

(16 replies, posted in Bows)

Hey, we want to see more than a stamp.  big_smile  Bow review too!  cool

6

(1 replies, posted in Arrows)

I'm no expert, but this is the way I would approach it. (I have done bamboo arrows before) Logic would say that the bamboo would grow towards the thinner end. If you cannot discern which end that is, I would say it doesn't matter, but pick the straightest end as the nock end. On those shafts which you CAN determine the tapered end, use it as the nock end. I'm not sure about choosing the end which has the node closest to it. There may or may not be a rule concerning that. If you're wanting to use the "full length" shaft then that rather eliminates being able to cut your shafts to manipulate the placement of the nodes.
         I'm also not sure what you mean by "the center mass of the arrow". Are you talking "size" or "balance" ? Balance can be controlled by the weight of your arrowhead and/or adding solid wood to the hollow core of the front end of your arrow shaft.
         You can find lots of tutorials on building bamboo arrows on line.

7

(17 replies, posted in Bows)

Pedro, sinew is the correct answer. Since I have been on this forum, I believe procedure has changed at least once, if not more. Currently, when you go to post a reply/message you will be taken to the "spam bot" question. If answered correctly, your post is summited. I'm not having any problems right now, but in the past, sometimes only a part of my reply would be posted. So I've taken to "copy" (so I can "paste") and Preview it BEFORE I hit the "Submit" button. Saves having to rewrite the whole thing over again.

8

(4 replies, posted in Arrows)

In the U.S., if animals/birds which are protected become a nuisance/endangerment then measurements are taken to rectify the problem by the proper state/federal wildlife authorities. This could be open hunting/trapping seasons (with guidelines and rules, which are lawfully required to be followed) or professional hunters to eradicate certain numbers.  We also have laws prohibiting the release of non-native species. We have great hunting and fishing here because of our state and federal wildlife agencies.

9

(4 replies, posted in Arrows)

DEFINITELY not legal in U.S.  .............. no birds of prey feathers!   Stiffer feathers give better arrow flight anyway.  wink

10

(17 replies, posted in Bows)

Pedro, are you filling in the answer to the question? neutral

11

(3 replies, posted in Arrows)

Right helical or left helical makes no difference as far as which hand you draw with (but be sure all your arrows are the same).  Your statement " My old arrows where left helical BUT I had used right wing 3x3". " is unclear. You don't mean to say you were using right hand feathers wrapped in a left helical ? because THAT would definitely not work!
    As far as your 2315's, only experimentation will tell, but adding weight to the front and overall length will definitely weaken spine weight.

12

(9 replies, posted in Accessories)

The Flemish twist string would make no difference. The object is to put a tightening effect on the serving as you draw. Winding your serving in the wrong direction WILL cause it to loosen over time.  cool

13

(10 replies, posted in Health & Fitness)

There are exercises with a Thera-Band FLEXBAR that have really helped my shoulders and elbows. (look up Thera-Band) Also the wall exercises storm suggests are good.

14

(9 replies, posted in Accessories)

Pedro, this would pertain to finger shooters. You want your serving to be wrapped so that your fingers would, in effect, be pulling it tighter around the bowstring when you're drawing the bow.  For right handed shooters ...... "clockwise" ........ for left handed shooters ...... "counter-clockwise".  For "thumb ring" shooters this would be just the opposite, but it may not be as big a deal since the ring is "slick" and would not be exerting as much (if any) torque against the serving.

15

(9 replies, posted in Accessories)

Raw bowstring material IS expensive. Unless you go through a LOT of strings I figure buying one when you need it is more practical. That said, if you compare the number of strings you can build from a spool of bowstring material with the cost of individual ready made strings, it's most likely cheaper to buy the material and build your own.
    Ready made strings and a spool of material didn't use to cost so much as they do today!   sad

16

(9 replies, posted in Accessories)

A serving tool by all means ............. unless you enjoy sitting for hours to serve a bowstring.   roll

17

(9 replies, posted in Accessories)

Paraffin is too hard to penetrate well enough. Use bee's wax or a dedicated bow string wax. Your string will last lots longer!

18

(17 replies, posted in Technique)

Nick .......... bow arm is a little shaky, bit of a creep before release, upper body moves forward at release. May be drawing more with shoulder instead of back. Would suggest a lighter weight bow.  Just my two cents.  big_smile

19

(9 replies, posted in Bows)

Your vote indicators show two "yes" categories.  big_smile

60 pounds is a bit much, or I'd be on it. Good luck with your sale.  smile

21

(4 replies, posted in Kaya Bows)

Assuming the arrow shelf can be positioned right or left by the owner?  Would like a more complete description of the bow ..........  materials, lengths, poundages available, prices, etc.   neutral

22

(17 replies, posted in Technique)

Would have to see more, It's pretty dark, plus a view from your other side while shooting.  cool

23

(5 replies, posted in Arrows)

If you want to be consistent, make yourself a template to lay along side each feather, and cut to the template. Cutting before or after attaching the feathers to the shafts shouldn't pose any problems either way. Just a matter of preference.

24

(5 replies, posted in Arrows)

jchocz wrote:

There is no need to dramatize the cutting feathers manually. In the past it has also been cut by hand (just as they do today). It takes a steady hand and sharp scissors.

Agreed.         wink

25

(8 replies, posted in General Interest)

With any luck, they'll replace your bow in SIX MONTHS with a 70# bow!! roll