ragnar wrote:

As mentioned before here (or in another thread ?), my target is 40..45# at full draw. I think about to accompany my Kaya/WhiteFeather bow with a longer model, like one from Alibow. If so, it ain't gonna be a fiberglass model.

Sounds good.  I've got an old Kaya 50# but I can't put a lot of hours on it daily so I ordered a Freddie Guru in 29# @31 to alternate & give my muscles a break every 2nd day.

CTR wrote:

I think AF Archery lists it as 126cm string length and 130cm overall length. These Tatar bows they make are FAST, more reflex than all but my Kaya and spindly little thin Siyahs. I get the impression they're delicate as well. I have already popped one, longitudinal split straight up through the core and laminations because there is no wrapping above the grip. They replaced it, but talking with people it seems the general consensus is that "all" the Saluki style modern lam bows are delicate including the Mariners, laminated Alibows, and Salukis themselves.

I had an AF 50# turkish delaminate at the back thru the handle about a foot either side.  I don't know re their delicacy but the timber used had a rather open grain.  Poor choice of materials in this case IMHO.
On the positive side, it shot rather nicely whilst it held together big_smile

ragnar wrote:

Some people I know call those arrows "tend poles" ...
I guess it was just for training. Could you reach the "Korean target distance" of 145 meters with this combination ?
And BTW, they are still available. I used the cheaper Jazz arrows in 3D parcours, and they are much more robust than Carbon shafts.

For your proposal, this might work well.
I just need to check if they are long enough. Said Easton Powerflight have a maximal length of 30,5" for the 500.
Mentioned "Maxima Carbon" arrows are available up to 33".
Actually, I'm not quite sure what my draw length with thumb draw is.
The relatively high draw weight and the sub-optimal thumb ring keep me from shooting properly.
Hope the 25# Alibow model arrives soon.

Ha !  Yes tent poles may be a good name.  Didn't know the 2315 GG's were still available.  I've only seen the black 340's.  I was just starting & never shot more than 20 mtrs.  Had no idea about Korean archery & 145 mtre ranges till some years later.
Interesting re the Jazz arrows vs the carbons.  I have destroyed so many aluminiums .  I like carbons better.

It's quite a learning process isn't it ?  Good luck with it all.  I hope you enjoy your Alibow.  I bought a fibre glass one, the Qinghai model 37# @28" /  50# @ 33". Really hated it compared to laminated bows.  Not so much hand shock but whole body shock  lol
Different design with heavier siyahs & draw weight than the one you ordered so yours should shoot quite differently.

If I wanted to keep it inexpensive I would try the 500's I already have.  They may work fine.
I started thumbring, many moons ago, shooting a 30# solid glass Hoyt longbow with 34" 2315 (340) Easton game getters.  The camo ones if anyone remembers them .
Kicked some if I held it too tight &  shot hard to the right but I learnt to be accurat-ish with it  wink

Hi Frank & greetings from Australia not Austria.  This could get confusing   wink
Just tell those other archers you have arthritis in your fingers & only your thumb can draw the bow  big_smile

I have an old  all black Kaya also, pre paisley covering.  It has weathered my bad habits well & still pulls #50.

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(2 replies, posted in Technique)

Are you using the same arrows for both bows ?  Although technique is crucial, an optimal spined arrow helps consistency , eg on a bad day, I shoot 400's better than 500's with my 50# bow.

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(9 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

Pedro C wrote:

maybe the crowding is also more likely to happen if the thumb is bent at the base?

My thumb is pretty straight in the sugakji but  maybe with other rings.

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(9 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

Pedro C wrote:

Looks nice!

Ah, I ordered some Easton Legacy shafts but they were too dang short neutral They don't even specify the arrow lengths in Lancaster Archery..

You are now using a sugakji so I guess the technique would be a bit different? That double hook stuff is for an amgakji, as far as I know..

Double hook on the draw hand means you have two fingers (index & middle) holding the thumb, actually only half of the middle finger covering the tip of the thumb. Also the hold I was taught by master Heon Ku Kim was 1 and a half fingers holding the thumb, with a deep hook and the ring between the first joint of the thumb and the thumb's base - maybe this depends on the shape of the ring..
by deep hook, I mean, a shallow hook would be the tip of the index holding the thumb closed, holding the string. a deep hook would be the index more wrapped around the thumb, maybe past the distal joint of the index

This https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vg70KpG5XsY is a bit different from the Korean style... actually what master Kim does is a bit more like standard double-hook than like gao ying's double hook, with some differences such as the deeper hold.. He is still very accurate with it

Thanx

Ah yeah I got caught like that on eBay in spite of asking the seller but it got sorted out.
The older 2016 Legacies as in my pic are 32" & the new ones I got were 31".  The older ones also look cooler with the faux "footing"

The sugakji doesn't really allow for depth or shallowness other than the length of the lug that the string rests on.  With mine I can feel its tip just touching my middle finger but it takes no perceivable weight & the thumb doesn't do much.
I'm sure if I used amgakji I would hook quite shallow as that is how I draw bare handed.  My index finger barely touching the thumbnail.

Interesting video.  I draw well below the nock or as Justin Ma said the arrow can get crowded off the string.  I have tried the Qing style thumbring but find the Korean rings easier.

It would seem, historically, at least, hunting existed in Korea. Don't know why/when that changed.

35

(9 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

Tom wrote:

Welcome aboard! Lot of great guys in this forum for sure. I have a Kaya KTB #25 myself. Great bow for the beginner that I am!
Cheers,
Tom.

Thanx Tom.  May you have many hits   smile

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(9 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

I couldn't work out how to attach a second pic in my previous post .  Here's my progression of thumbrings over the years.

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(9 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

Pedro C wrote:

Welcome

got pictures? KTB? Sounds nice

I am getting a 20-25# bow now (Segye) because I can't hit anything with my 40-45#... so I imagine my form must suck for some reason. still for now I should definitely do pulling exercises with my 40-45#.

Do you plan to do 'true Korean' style with the frontal super open stance, double-hook hold, very low wrist etc or modify such as with single hook, parallel stance..?

Hi Pedro & Thanx.
Found a pic from a few months ago.  The arrows are 2016 Easton Legacies. Same age as the bow.

A lighter bow would be good .  At least kinder on home made bag targets but I bet it wouldn't take long to get used to the 45#.
I had sore rhomboids for  a few weeks when I picked up the bow again but that passed as I improved my form some.

I try to shoot as traditionally as I can learn from watching videos but I'm not sure of some of the terms you use like "double-hook" hold.
I made a few thumbrings over the years but settled on the moose antler sugakji I made recently.

38

(9 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

G'day there.
I'm in Sydney, Australia. Have a carbon Kaya KTB 50#, must be going on 7 years now.  Just picked it up again this year.
Hopefully I can learn to shoot it properly this time round .

Looking forward to some intelligent answers to my stupid questions  smile
Cheers