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There's plenty of bamboo in the states.  Its actually easier to find rather than river cane.

What the picture suggests is that you measure from middle of neck to what appears the area where the base of your fingers meet the palm of your hand, with your arm extended out just like that.  Then add add 3cm.  This will allow the blunted end of the arrow to stick out a bit once you reach your full draw.

For arrow weight, the easiest thing to do is tell the merchant your bow's draw weight, how far you intend to draw it, and the length of your arrow.  Then they can assist you appropriately.

I typed in 'White Feathers korean bows' in my duckduckgo search engine and a number of merchants appeared selling them.  From my experience, its not common for every single KTB manufacturer to have a website for their products immediately accessible to westerners.  Even when they do, like SMG had, they don't accept orders directly via the site and you often will need to go through a 'middle man'. 

Therefore, your best bet is to type in the search terms that I provided and ask the merchants you come across about the product.

Interesting, no site but you can go to the guy in the video and he will be your middle man I'm guessing.  Pass.  Considering that almost everyone in the world now has either a web page, etsy, ebay, or FB account etc. etc.

In other news: its come to my attention that SMG's site has gone away.  hmmmm.....

Yes arrows with a spine that suites the bow and how it functions minimizes the need according to those who I've talked to elsewhere who have investigated this matter.  But what was the technique actually called in Korean?  Its totally different too compared to Taybugha's technique (khatra) which is a forward rotation of the bow as described in Saracen Archery.  Khatra's purpose is not to increase accuracy but rather speed and this is actually clearly stated in the translation of Taybugha's words.  So jumbling it with the torque technique used in Korean archery is wrong yet a frequent and common assertion on various Asiatic archery internet forum on social media discussion pages.

Actually, there is even the possibility that the torque's purpose in Korean archery does not actually facilitate an increase in arrow flight accuracy.  In a discussion I had with someone elsewhere, they mentioned how those who practice the technique over in Korea will not include accuracy as the specific reason as to why the do it.  Rather allegedly, its been said they proclaim utilization of torque simply because its 'how they were taught' or even that 'it just works well' but nothing specific about accuracy.

In Kyudo, the reason the bow turns after release ('yugari' or 'yugaieity') is not actually explicitly explained to increase accuracy either.  Rather the exact reason is portrayed as an unknown.

Points I found interesting:

1) distinguishes the Joseon era war bar from a typical 'civilian' bow.  The later is essentially the gak-gung that is seen in use today if I understand him correctly.  I was trying to figure out how the two were distinguished from each other a while back.  Would be great to hear more if the two had a parallel development.

2) Cheil KTB.  Never heard of them before but apparently the product is quite good.  Not really in the market for a KTB these days but still good to know what else is out there.

Fair enough, and good luck with that given current events but also other factors....

You're welcome and I wish you luck on your journey here into KTA.

Usually you want to start off with a set (inlcudes bow, case, and maybe some arrows).  Kaya's is usually pretty good for price and quality but I'm not seeing it offered at the moment.  May have dig around though and see if it pops up.

As for the bow kits at Freddie's site, the Nomad looks like a winner to me but I've no experience with it. 

Regarding draw weight, ideally what you'd want to do here is start off with a cheap beginner bow (50 to 90 dollar price range) that is rated at say 20 pounds @ 28 or 31 inches or so.  Obviously, this is not really feasible with Korean made traditional bows since they usually start at 200 dollars.  There used to be a Chinese company that I'd recommend here that made a beginner's bow designed to be utilized with a thumbdraw just like I mentioned at those specs and price but I am not recommending them anymore due to their unreliability in construction and poor customer care.  The bow is dangerous and will break on you.

Word of caution:  I'd hold off on the tonga until you gain balance and stability with the bow.

What I have bolded here is easily more the case.  I know in kyudo, much of what is practiced does not really apply to what the samurai would have done.  So be careful from the get go assuming what you see on youtube.com (or really almost anywhere else concerning the stance currently used) at present day Korean archery ranges regarding form has anything to do with what Joseon, Goguryeo, Silla, Baekje era Korean polities would have expected their archers to do for warfare. 

bluelake would probably know better than anyone else what, if any, ancient Korean warfare manuscripts would have had to say about the matter.  Anything beyond consulting those sources is really just going to be guess work.

You need specs here m8.  Have you tried ATARN or even the source I provided?  I don't think Youtube is going to cut here.