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500gn is very heavy for a flight arrow, for a Korean bow of that draw weight (standard for broadhead flight though)... that is actually quite amazing if the arrow is that heavy. Means the bow actually stores a decent amount of energy.

Do you shoot with khatra?

Wonder if I could approach 500m with my 50# songmugung  and something like 200grain arrows

Nice
I think the grip of the black shadow is too small for the bow hand hold I've been shown..
what's the draw weight?

Looks great, I think you could draw a bit more, an extra inch or two, up to until the base of the arrowhead is in line with the bow's back. I've been told to always draw to the sangsa (arrowhead base felt with bow hand thumb..) for a consistent draw length. Food for thought: I'm not sure but the bow elbow looks like it may be hyperextended, maybe not rotated enough. Might be hunching the bow shoulder a bit? but only a little..

I'm interested, what spine and length of arrows are you using?

Master Kim also told me that it's fine for the top limb to be a bit big like that. My Nomad KTB might do the same thing.. it definitely does it if I string it applying more pressure to the top limb.

I think it's more a concern to have a stiffer upper limb if shooting 145m, I think it might make the arrow go up more (but not faster, I don't think..)

Hi
That is a little weird, hopefully there are no problems with it. Have you drawn it to full draw? If you're going to, I'd try to 'heel' the bow a lot so that the bow's drawing pressure is on the lowest part of the grip. - that's what I'l ltry to do with my hornbow that has a significantly weaker limb.. it'd put more of the pressure on the lower limb afaik

Usually, in general (not Korean archery?..) the stiffer limb is the bottom limb, and the top limb has the be a bit weaker. So I think it's better that the weak limb is the top limb in this case..

I think it could be the way you brace it. Especially since it's bamboo, it might have a bit more plasticity or elastic memory (like a hornbow) at the beginning, so you could try to bend the lower limb alone more, on the knee, as if you were trying to balance a hornbow. And when you string it, try to apply equal pressure to both limbs.

I don't think the tiller is too far off at all. Notice any cracks on the bamboo?

There seems to be plenty of variation with the way different masters say the right way to do things is. sugakji vs amgakji, single vs double hook (draw hand), how much to torque the bow, how much of a 'triangle' there should be between chest and arm (or angle between bow arm line and shoulders line)..
I think Master Heon Ku Kim's feet overlap too. The right foot would be about half a foot forward.. And he was dinging me for leaning forward. We stand straight. Then it's easier to aim higher for the 145m target. I thought more of the force should go for the toes of the feet? I dunno.
Master Heon Ku Kim's stance and draw just looks very strong.. there's something about it

The hornbowyer Jj Weißnicht did this reproduction of that bow, 60#@32". He estimated the original bow's draw weight at around 100#.

same

Test

Oh cool.

I would love to have more aluminum shaft choices, with 32" shafts.. wish there was more than just Easton. I'd like to play with stuff between .350" and .800" of deflection.

I think I'd go with this one over the Genghis Khan, seems to have more flipped tips

https://www.alibowshop.com/blank-rwrlr/ming-kaiyuan

I think you'll first have to decide which style you want to practice.

If you happen to live in Southern California, there's master Kim's club. Justin Ma also frequents in SoCal.

Some of the Alibow fiberglass models are good, yet cheap. Like the Turkish if you want to do a shorter draw... or the "Genghis Khan", which should be great if you're gonna do Gao Ying style. But those laminated ones should be fine too..

I got the Segye, it's fine but doesn't come with a proper jum-tong (the big grip stuff). I glued a bunch of paper, wrapped with suede and now it's fine..

The Segye looks the same as that longbowmaker "black shadow" bow (I guess they 'borrowed' the name from MJ system...)

There was another UK site that had firefox or windfighter bows for cheap that should work fine. Probably the best bet..

You should stay below 30lbs for a first. It's always good to have a light bow, even when you become strong enough to pull 100#, if you do, so your first should be light.

I got the 25#@30" Segye, around 30#@32", and it's fast enough to be satisfactory to 50m, I'm sure it'd work fine for hunting small game too.

Arrows are very important too... Alibow seems to measure them from nock throat to tip of point. It's hard to find a proper spine if you're shooting without khatra(bow handle torque), hard to learn a clean release..

There's a few ways to measure arrow length in Korean archery. If you're going with Korean archery, it seems like 8 chi arrows (33.4" nock groove to tip) are the very longest you should use, unless you're a giant.

This way should work well if your armspan isn't long/you're of shorter stature - and it's for a very long draw, almost to your shoulder. It seems like most people doing Korean archery actually draw less than this (relative to their body).

With this method, I get a measurement of around 35", but I use 2ja7.5chi(32.8") arrows and draw 32".

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