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Thread for screw in inserts is 8-32 UNC.  The ATA standard can be found here:

http://archerytrade.org/images/document … ARR204.pdf

I think one might be able to drill a bamboo shaft out to minor diameter, fill the void with epoxy thinned with a bit of acetone and then tap it when dry.  You'd want to wrap the end very securely with thread or ribbon and cover that with thinned epoxy or multiple coats of lacquer.  Of course, you could just drill the hole big enough to fit and epoxy the point in permanenty, without messing with tapping the thread.

Kanuck

Bluelake

That is very interesting.  The plant itself seems little more than a shrub and no mention I can find suggests the wood has any special qualities or characteristics.  I assume the grain is very fine and tight and that the wood in its dry form is quite hard.  Is it harder or denser than birch (which was used for nails in Canada in pioneer times - but required that hole be drilled first normally)? 

Kanuck

Raven

It appears these bows are unique in the archery world.  I look forward to receiving mine and hope to be able to study others to help determine their physical qualities and plot force draw curves from their low brace height to the point where the bowstring makes a 90 degree angle with the tip.

I also shoot Howard Hill bows and own them in 70, 85 and 100lbs @28" but I think my heavier Hills are going to be put up for sale.  As I close in 49 years this spring and feel all the minor aches and pains I'm coming to appreciate lighter bows that are more efficient, like the Hwarang.  So long as I can teach myself to hit with it and a thumbring, I see no reason to hunt with anything heavier.

If anyone has a KTA bow they aren't using that they'd be willing to loan me for study purposes, please PM me.  All results will be published on this forum for the benefit of all.  There appears to be a lack of systematic and technical study of these wonderful little bows.

Best Regards

Kanuck

Just received my carbon arrow shaft test pack - Traditional Only from 3 Rivers Archery.  Bare shaft lengths from nock bottom to end of shaft and weight per shaft with nock is as follows:

size 600 - 30 5/8" - 224gr - stated grains per inch (gpi) 7.0 - calculated gpi w/nock - 7.3 - weight of aluminum insert 10gr
size 500 - 31 1/2" - 262gr - stated grains per inch (gpi) 8.0 - calculated gpi w/nock - 8.3 - weight of aluminum insert 13-14gr
size 400 - 32"       - 302gr - stated grains per inch (gpi) 9.1 - calculated gpi w/nock - 9.4 - weight of aluminum insert 13-14gr
size 340 - 32 1/2" - 334gr - stated grains per inch (gpi) 10.0 - calculated gpi w/nock - 10.3 - weight of aluminum insert 13-14gr
size 300 - 33"       - 344gr - stated grains per inch (gpi) 10.1 - calculated gpi w/nock - 10.4 - weight of aluminum insert 13-14gr

Weight of brass insert for glue on point is 75gr.  Weight of glue on field points: 99gr, 125 gr, 145gr, 160gr and 190gr.  Note that the brass insert will not fit the 600 shaft which is noticeably smaller in diameter and uses a different nock than the rest of the sizes.

My first impression is that none of the shafts is long enough to allow a proper thumbring draw, but we will see when my Hwarang arrives.  I have lots of wooden arrow shafts in poplar, ash and hickory that I can cut down and add as foreshafts to lengthen the test shafts if necessary.  I expect I will only be trying the 400, 340 and 300 sizes with this bow but wanted the other shafts on hand for spine testing arrows for other bows in future - specifically for my kids, who are all teens now.

Technically, "stacking" is the point where the bowstring exceeds an angle of 90 degrees from the end of the bow. That is one reason why recurves can be so much shorter than straight limbed bows and be comfortable to draw.  In the photo of Ginni above, you can see that, right at the tip, the string angle has started to exceed 90 degrees.  He must have felt a major increase in draw weight the last inch, but he is obviously a very powerful archer.  As bluelake says, for most of us it will feel like we have hit a wall.  On a force draw curve, the line goes almost vertical at this point.

Non-technically, "stacking" is defined as that point in the draw length where the weight seems to go up much, much faster than is typical for the draw.  Between 25 and 28 inches, a modern recurve or longbow will gain about 2lbs per inch.  Beyond that the rate might start increasing to 2.5 -3 lbs per inch, which might be noticeable but when it reaches about 4-6lbs per inch you will know it.  The tricky thing about long draws is that our bodies are much stronger beyond a Western draw to the corner of the mouth as we bring the back muscles fully into play.  This allows us to tolerate a fair bit of "stacking" as we draw past the jawbone.  Again, look at the photo of Ginni above and see how the muscles across the top of his back are developed and how his shoulder blades seem to be coming together.  He has trained himself to use all the muscles together when drawing and holding a bow.  While the bow was probably pulling over 90lbs at his draw length he appears perfectly relaxed.  In the video I've seen of him shooting, he makes it look easy....but we never do get to see his target 

I just ordered it the end of last week so it will likely be the end of January before I see it.....

I've played a bit with Stu's Spine Calculator but the Hwarang is so new to me that I'm only guessing at the bow model to use to try and find something comparable - cancel last - I just found the "Generic Performance Recurve/Horsebow" setting. 

There are so many variables to take into account with a new style of bow, a new release method, a new draw length etc!    I'll trust the results from a test pack rather than a spine calculator anyday, but the results might be of interest to those who follow and wish to use the spine calculator to try and get a starting point with their setup.

Hun

Thanks for the info.  The force draw curve of the Kaya is interesting - about identical to a Western recurve.  If anything, the "sweet spot" on the curve is a little before 28" and it definitely is starting to stack after that, but not too badly. I would expect the Hwarang to be a little more supple and smooth in its draw beyond 28".  13# in the last 4 inches is pretty steep but not what I would call "stacking" per se. 

Warbow

It can be done with gravity and dumbells (or even buckets of sand!) or with cables from either standing or bent over.  The main thing is to ensure you never use more weight than you can achieve full range of motion - and no jerking or building up momentum!  Try to focus on the muscles of the upper back rather than the shoulders and arms when pulling. The idea is to train all the muscles to work together rather than achieve isolation of any one muscle group. And when I say use both arms I mean one at a time, of course...  I will see if I can find a good sequence of photos.

Kanuck

Warbow

You must have deeper pockets than I do!  Or maybe its just that I'm of good Scottish stock....

Raven

From a technical point of view, horn bows traditionally are at their strongest when released immediately following the reaching of a full anchor.  Turkish flight shooters even went so far as to pluck release the arrow the last few inches.  However, the actual loss of stored energy is pretty minimal.  Besides, in hunting or in war, a slow hit is better than a bunch of fast misses.  As with any other speed technique, practice being smooth first and speed will come with time.

Kanuck

Hi Folks  The only source of tanged arrows I can find online (At $5 each) is here:  http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/Me … heads.html.  I haven't ordered from them but will when I'm ready to make traditional arrows.

Bluelake, what is the weight of the traditional head you recovered?