1

(12 replies, posted in Bows)

Check to see if the limb is twisted when unstrung

2

(5 replies, posted in Thumb Rings)

That looks like a pretty sharp edge on the inside of the thumb, that's bound to hurt. Got a cross section view?

3

(5 replies, posted in Thumb Rings)

You haven't attached a picture

I'm afraid that ring's nonsense, it wouldn't hurt with a proper ring which is actually moulded to the shape of the thumb's curve, instead of just being a pipe with one side cut at an angle..

YMG http://goongdo.com/

SMG http://smgung.co.kr/

Hwarangs are just YMG sold under a new name (and higher price)

The ebay bow you linked is YMG (chinese characters on the limb say so), just $290 instead of the $450 Hwarang price

6

(13 replies, posted in Bows)

pclgorman wrote:

Thanks for the replies, very interesting. Someone forwarded me this link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6qRnTVM2KU

I have a subtitled version here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cicYRzWss74

7

(17 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

No, it absolutely cannot have the same performance as a real hornbow. Without sinew the bow can't be reflexed as much, which reduces the preloading that gives hornbows their smooth draws. Having horn on the belly doesn't help that. The bow shoots just the same as a carbon, just a wee bit slower because horn is heavier than carbon.

At draw weights lower than ~40 pounds, carbons shoot better because they're lighter and more efficient. At heavier draw weights horn/sinews shoot better because of the energy advantage. Carbon bows with horn bellies shoot with the lower energy of a carbon bow with slightly less efficiency. The main advantage is that it looks good.

Horn/carbon hybrids shoot with 10% less energy than horn/sinews at ~50 pounds

8

(9 replies, posted in Thumb Rings)

Looser but made tight with a leather loop in the back?

9

(13 replies, posted in Bows)

I've been thinking about and researching it because I want to overhaul my bow too. Replace the old cracked birch, redo the bindings (from monofilament to something more natural), grip and the leather wraps on the nocks etc

The traditional method is to store the bark in seawater for a year and boil it just before you stick it on with fish bladder glue. Nowadays they use rubber cement. Karpowicz has the following to say in his book:

There were reports from Korea about soaking the bark in sea water for a year to achieve greater flexibility and about boiling prior to use. I believe the soaking does not allow the bark to become dry, while salty water prevents spoilage. I have not found such bark to be any more flexible, however. The bark when boiled in water becomes very soft and rubbery and swells to form wrinkles at the lenticells.

Unfortunately, when taken out of hot water it immediately hardens again. I found alcohols, isopropyl (so called “rubbing alcohol”) or ethyl alcohol, much more effective in softening bark, since the bark stays softer for a longer time until the alcohol evaporates. One can, of course, experiment with other solvents to take advantage of this property. Instead of soaking, the bark can be exposed to vapors of alcohols, mixed half-half with water in a stack of wetted tissue.

In my experience rubbing alcohol evaporates quicker than water... I don't know, will have to experiment

10

(17 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

http://www.koreanarchery.org/punbb/view … 4028#p4028

Pics of it unstrung here, it's just a laminated bow with horn belly. My SMG laminated horn is the same

11

(17 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

Yeah I asked koreanbow about their Taegeuk 'hornbow' and it isn't really a hornbow, just a fiberglass bow with horn belly. They do sell a real hornbow for $800

12

(9 replies, posted in Arrows)

ja=30.3cm, chi=3.03cm so 2ja 7chi should be 81.8, typo

13

(30 replies, posted in Accessories)

Last time, I used a square knot, cut the loose ends short and burned/melted them with a lighter. This thickened the ends enough that they didn't slip under the knot anymore.. Used this string for a year with a 60 pound bow and it's held up so I guess it's good enough but I do wish there was a better way to do it.

In the video I saw, they used a square knot, and it seemed not to slip. Not sure how.

14

(30 replies, posted in Accessories)

Pedro C wrote:

the loose ends of the continuous string are giving me a lot of trouble... thinking i'll join with a triple fisherman's knot. i have to rub the string etc to make sure all the strands are sharing strength

a square knot like in one of the videos didn't work well for me..

beeswax works pretty well for the loops since it's tacky, it seems..


Did you figure out a good knot for the continuous? About to make a new string

15

(5 replies, posted in Bows)

There's cork in Manchuria but it's not the same cork they make wine corks and stuff out of. The bark is thin, and used as a wrapping, not as a building material

16

(5 replies, posted in Bows)

No, wood. No cork in Asia. You don't need a spongey material, they use sponge so it's easier for the user to trim to the size of their hand, not for some shock absorbing property.

Pedro C wrote:

But that bends the limb in contact with my legs more than the other.

Who cares? You're still not bending the limb anywhere near as much as when you shoot it. Don't worry about it, Koreans have been using the step through method for as long as they've been using FRP bows

Ah shit, forgot to tell you. You should make the loop a little shorter than what you want and shoot it a bit to let the knot tighten (and get longer)

No, I'm not saying it shouldn't be used, I use it too. Just calling it efficiency is weird and confusing (which is why you keep having to explain what you mean every time you call it efficiency), and values like 122% efficiency makes no sense.

Efficiency is the ratio of useful work to total energy. The % sign also means a ratio, there are no units after a percentage because it's a pure dimensionless metric. 122% ftlb/lb doesn't make any sense.

That's why people just use 1.22 ftlb/lb (or J/lb) and leave it at that, it isn't efficiency.

20

(30 replies, posted in Accessories)

If your string is waxed, they'll stick together and not come apart. I've done it by just simple twisting (though I don't see why reverse twisting would be a problem)

Hunterseeker5 wrote:

produce >100% efficiency if looking at KE output divided by #s at full draw

Hunterseeker5 wrote:

100% efficiency (again KE output/poundage at full draw)

I wish you wouldn't call that efficiency. We already call KE/SE efficiency, why call energy/draw weight efficiency as well? If you have to call it something performance makes more sense.

22

(26 replies, posted in Arrows)

Still nothing? tongue

23

(10 replies, posted in Bows)

Pedro C wrote:

I now wonder mostly on the difference between YMG and SMG bows, and why the pictures of the Hwarang I see look different from the SMG bows in goongdo.com.

Hwarang are (currently) YMG bows.

24

(2 replies, posted in Arrows)

1. What finish is used in the traditional bamboo arrows?

Tea sead oil.

2. The feathers are glued on with fish glue... how do they or did they avoid them falling off if the arrows get wet in rain?

Fish glue doesn't come apart just from water, you would need high heat as well.

3. I'd like to know more about different styles of target arrowheads. There's the pointy tanged ones that look kind of like the duplex nail arrowheads in the primitive archer bamboo arrow tutorial, then there's the socketed blunt ones. Wonder about tanged blunt ones..

Some tanged blunts in this photo from the Young Jip museum website

http://www.arrow.or.kr/data/file/arrkor/thumb_42_0_3.jpg

4. Did Koreans ever happen to make nocks like the ottomans, with 2 pieces? Like this

No. Cutting a straight wedge like that isn't easy in bamboo, while putting in an insert nock is a lot easier.

Does anyone know where I can buy nocks like these?

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12212152/korean%20carbon%20nock.jpg