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why not cut your own foam for the bow to sit in? some sort of fancy sports case

An endless string is probably best to start with. Are you using the wide Korean type nocks? where'd you get your arrows? either way, ideally I'd just go with a thick enough serving to fit without double serving, from the middle of the string up about 6"/15cm. The tricky thing is knowing how many strands of material, and what thickness of serving material is needed for a good fit

It may be easier to just modify your current string or buy a string for that bow, and double serve for at least about 3" so the nocks fit, if needed. Then tightly tie a nock point that sits atop the nock like ragnar says.
Should be more durable with dyneema/spectra braided material. or could use a brass one if you have the tools

are the shafts 32", or the whole arrow? I'd need the shafts to be 32". Would be nice if I could find inexpensive, ~700 spine, low gpi (light), 32" shafts for my 30#@32" segye bow

The Windfighter is Kaya. I'm pretty sure Freddie just sells rebranded hyunmugung (the Nomad line?), songmugung and taegeuk bows, as well as the hornbow. might be wrong about hyunmugung..

It might've been a culprit to his paralysis? I think I'd (hypothetically?) rather try thick hide glue after sizing with thin fish bladder or hide glue. I've heard good things about it. For synthetic, Titebond 2 or 3 would probably work well too.
But I don't think that would help with the cracking... maybe it could just be ignored, while continuing to apply... maybe tea seed oil. Olive oil will smell rancid after a while.

would hide glue be good for birch bark?

I think that grip style's existed since at least late 1800s

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid … mp;theater

King GoJong's (last Joseon king?) target hornbow..

So they're nice for Korean bows, then

Hmm. My 50" bow takes 32" max. Maybe half an inch more, but already stacking. My 53" bow can reach 33". So the ratio is around 1.55 min

The Guru is 44", so... 44/31~=1.42.

44"/x = 1.55 => x = 28.38"

I just think the limbs will be past parallel. It'll be interesting either way. I doubt that it'd break, since it's pretty light..

But that bow is so short..? probably max d/l 29"?

Maybe that's why it performs the same as the solid glass one..

Another option is Black Eagle shafts, but those are rather expensive.
There's also Alibow.

How do you know what spine you need?

If you torque the bow handle, I think 600 spine should work.
If you don't, it's hard. Maybe 1000. Maybe 700.

I'm guessing I need around 600-900 for my 31#@32" bow. I'm going with wood... problem is they'll end up being 14-15gpp. Bit high for a Korean bow... Which is why I kinda wanna barrel them.

Though my ~12gpps fly kinda nicely, point on distance close to 50m

You are drawing to 31"? It's strange that the Kingdom feels worse. It looks very similar, a bit lighter than the gukgungwon in your force draw curve. 48" version?

My 53" Nomad KTB feels smoother than my 50" Songmugung.. can draw 8 chi arrows (32.5" draw) more comfortably, while I think my songmugung hits a wall right at 32" so I use 7.5 chi arrows with it. I couldn't tell which was faster at 10m. Maybe i should try a longer distance later. They have very similar draw weight.

I was kind of expecting the Nomad bows to be faster than the Kayas. Guess not?..

That's a very nice length for the Tatar.