26

(23 replies, posted in Bows)

Hey guys, so my birch skin is in need of repair, and I'm trying to figure out my options.  Now I've read that some have replaced the backing on other Korean bows, and I'm wondering if the hwarang is the same way.

Now I see some black under the birch...is this carbon?  I'm asking because I could just remove the birch and leave it as carbon (at least until I get proper material to recover it).  Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I may not have thought about other options.

Thanks in advance!



Edit: I wanted to clarify something.  When I was in the market for a bow, I sought out bad experiences from others to determine the durability and longevity of a bow, and I feel that this thread could potentially seem like I had a problem with my Hwarang to any potential buyers.  First off, I fell three feet off of a deck (down the steps) head first....and to catch myself I obviously put my hands out, but one hand held my bow, and therefore I LANDED on my bow.  I slid a good meter on the limb of my bow with 200lbs (91kg) of weight after landing.  Considering what happened, I think the bow did great, but it did scratch up the birch during the slide.  I'm re-doing all of it, and it's worth noting that it's a very big job trying to remove the rest of the backing, and I can honestly say that it's put on very very well, and even with sanding pads it's a LOT of work.  For what it's worth, I think that this backing is tougher than any other typical bow backing.

If you personally have any questions about this, ask and I'll answer, or PM me.... just know that this problem was caused by me and not the bow.

27

(7 replies, posted in Arrows)

bluelake wrote:
misterwonky wrote:

So I don't own an arrow that I didn't fletch, but now I'm wanting to make traditional Korean arrows.  I read over the threads, and have some good ideas on where to start, but there's a couple of questions I still had for anyone that's done their own KTA fletching.

-Where do you guys get your feathers?  My normal source doesn't have pheasant (I'm assuming that's what's used based on the pictures I've found).  I can find sources for it, but if there's a "go to" source, I'd like to use it.

-Are wooden nocks preferred over glued on materials (like bone or horn)?

-Are there any specs that I should know about?  The arrows I've seen seem to be very.... similar; the serving thread is of similar start/finish, the feathers are of similar characteristics....etc.

-Lastly, Korean archery has had, imo, the coolest arrow heads I've ever seen on historical sources.  I would like to make a few prestigious arrows to show off in a holder, and it'd really be great to have them perfect.  Where can I find reproductions?


I think that's it.  Sorry for the wall of questions, but I've spent a lot of time researching the stuff, and those are the only questions I couldn't find answers for, or at least not consistent answers for.

What you need is the video I produced on the Korean bamboo arrow  big_smile   (You can get it from Three Rivers Archery: http://www.3riversarchery.com/The+Way+o … item.html)

hmm.... yeah that'd probably be something good to buy.  I'll get this in a week or two!  I guess the only thing that is left is a source of historical reproduction arrowheads.  Thanks!

28

(7 replies, posted in Arrows)

So I don't own an arrow that I didn't fletch, but now I'm wanting to make traditional Korean arrows.  I read over the threads, and have some good ideas on where to start, but there's a couple of questions I still had for anyone that's done their own KTA fletching.

-Where do you guys get your feathers?  My normal source doesn't have pheasant (I'm assuming that's what's used based on the pictures I've found).  I can find sources for it, but if there's a "go to" source, I'd like to use it.

-Are wooden nocks preferred over glued on materials (like bone or horn)?

-Are there any specs that I should know about?  The arrows I've seen seem to be very.... similar; the serving thread is of similar start/finish, the feathers are of similar characteristics....etc.

-Lastly, Korean archery has had, imo, the coolest arrow heads I've ever seen on historical sources.  I would like to make a few prestigious arrows to show off in a holder, and it'd really be great to have them perfect.  Where can I find reproductions?


I think that's it.  Sorry for the wall of questions, but I've spent a lot of time researching the stuff, and those are the only questions I couldn't find answers for, or at least not consistent answers for.

29

(8 replies, posted in General Interest)

Well that sort of makes me feel better.... except for Will's comment.  I think it'd be fun to shoot in various weather conditions, but I can't handle the wind-chill here, and it's terrible to look for an arrow in the grass in sub 30F weather for 30 minutes :\.

30

(8 replies, posted in General Interest)

I've been thinking lately....it's freezing here and I'm not able to get out there and shoot (well, I could, but you know...).  I started thinking that I'm really going to have to push myself when it warms up a little, which led to another topic I haven't seen outside of the Olympic shooter's discussion: how often do you shoot?  Do you ever make yourself shoot as apart of routine or for some other reason?  I know a few of you guys are from Korea, and I'm sure the weather is different, but is there a season that youyou "relax" a bit?

I would like to get to where I'm flinging 500+ arrows a week, and I can't stand waiting.  I really envy you guys with indoor and heated fields.

31

(3 replies, posted in Bows)

I'm almost positive that most Korean bows use HMPE.....including YMGs.  I am pretty sure that throwing DynaFLIGHT on it wouldn't be a problem.

32

(8 replies, posted in Bows)

Chadwck wrote:

Sometime this year I want to upgrade to a Hwarang. I currently have a KTB from Kaya and love it but I want something a little stronger to hunt with this fall.

I'm not one that goes out and hunts, but I had a varmint problem a few months ago (cause problems with my two Shih Tsus).  The racoons would get spooked when they heard a leaf crumple.....but the arrow reached them before they flinched.  Even though I feel bad for doing it, I can honestly say I trust my Hwarang with my life when it comes to hunting (If I needed to that is), and I wouldn't hesitate to use it on huge game if I needed to with it's speed, power, and versatility.  I just thought I'd chime in with this, because before I bought one I found little info about how great it is for hunting.

33

(12 replies, posted in Bows)

bluelake wrote:

http://www.koreanarchery.org/classic/yg%20043.jpg

lol, That bow makes you look like a 10 year old with a full mustache.  Those siyahs are huge... besides draw length, is there any major differences?  It doesn't seem like a regular profile, excluding size of course.

34

(12 replies, posted in Bows)

Sounds like a custom build to me.  I don't know for sure, but I would think that Bluelake could get a custom order in for someone of your...stature, or else know of someone that can offer it.  I'm not sure about the Korean bowyers, but usually things like this require substantially more money as they're totally custom made for you.

WillScarlet wrote:

Great "build-a-long" MW.    I imagine a Manchu style ring would take even less time. (apart from polishing)

I've never used a Manchu, so don't know for sure.  I'm not sure how long Manchu are supposed to be, but if the sanding drum will reach at least half way then yeah...I think it'd take substantially less time.  Anyway, good luck!

So while I've done tons of research on the Asiatic styles, and learned of the various gear (and their bizarre names), I noticed that while there were some great tutorials for making a thumb ring, there weren't a lot of photos throughout the process.  That's what this is.  I've seen countless threads among ATARN and a few on here about the details during the builds (a few of which were from me wink).  I first started doing it through Bluelake's method (found Here), and it really got me going; I've sort of developed my own method for making, but that's only because of my tool selection (one tool...a Dremel/Rotary Tool).  The process can take anywhere from 45 minutes to many hours, which of course depends on the level of detail orientation you posses.  The following ring, being my first ever horn ring that was actually good, took two hours from start to finish (though, 45 mins of that was hand polishing).

I, of course, would like to hear some feedback, because I may have missed "a better way" here or there.  Lastly, before I get started, I decided to go with a different Asiatic thumb ring style here, but I think it could scale into most any style that I can think of.



http://i.imgur.com/M7Tl0lM.jpg
I bought this Buffalo Horn at my local pet store (chew "toy" for dogs).  It was extremely cheap (like $6.99 or so), and they don't seem to be too popular because of the huge selection I had to choose from.  In this picture you can see that I cut off the size I felt was right....which is obviously WAY too huge, but that's why it's to be worked with.  Also, I lied...apparently I have this old ruined saw that I used to cut the initial piece with.  There was no science behind this, and I merely winged it.




http://i.imgur.com/EHnmk1zh.jpg
This is after I cut the piece off, and then I ran a dremel all over it with the sand drum attachment.... this is about 30 seconds worth of sanding.



http://i.imgur.com/m7jCTdMh.jpg
There hasn't been any more work done in this picture... I just wanted to show what it looked like in a different perspective.  It's notable that the inner core is separated, and it'll have to go for integrity reasons.



http://i.imgur.com/bWBlda3h.jpg
This is my first real step.  I use the sand drum to plow into the top, which happens faster than I'd expect.  It also allows me to shape the sides faster with less surface area later.



http://i.imgur.com/qXPJjFIh.jpg
First off, ignore the dremel's absent chuck... I was changing it and thought I should grab a picture before taking it out.  I generally use the sanding drum in one spot until it's half way through, then do the bottom, but I decided to use the drill bit this time (I recommend this way because it is significantly easier).  I drilled about 8 little holes in a circle, and everything sort of popped out.  Then I just used the side of the drill bit to go around the parameter until the opening was large enough to fit the sanding drum (this probably doesn't sound safe....you may want to use a vice and the cutting bit instead).



http://i.imgur.com/eyS40bEh.jpg
After running the sanding drum on low, I carefully (and slowely) bored out the thumb hole.  I check the sizing every few seconds, and I feel that's a good practice in case you're cutting too much too quickly.  I make the thumb hole really tight, and can barely get my thumb into it.  Why?  Because this if rough shaping, and you wouldn't want your thumb hole perfect with ugly tool marks inside.  Also note that the ring's orientation is sideways since that's how you put the ring on.



http://i.imgur.com/1npkipZh.jpg
Nothing special here... no extra work, it's just on my thumb to give you an idea how ugly it is smile.



http://i.imgur.com/J0XH5Jkh.jpg
In case you missed it, I haven't worked the inside taper/flair at all since the very second step.  This is where I work on it again.  I just use the sanding drum on low, take a bit out, try it on, rinse and repeat many many many times.  I focus on the tab's angle here, and worry less about the side flair for the moment.



http://i.imgur.com/WydJG2Eh.jpg
Cleaning up the top edge of the ring.  It's important to note that at this moment, I can remove more from this top area, or start working on the bottom.  Not with this ring, but some past rings had a weird fit, and having the play on the other side saved the ring since I could work the other side.  This is also why the band is so thick right here.



http://i.imgur.com/mxGW3edh.jpg
Shaping the profile I want.  Notice the parabolic edge.  No other work done here.



http://i.imgur.com/btR18dBh.jpg
I decided on what angle I wanted the tab, put the drum down onto the tab with that angle, and started working that new angle in.



http://i.imgur.com/4BjaK6qh.jpg
This is the time where I clean up the symmetry.  This is probably the most time consuming part for me, but it's also the easiest.  (notice the band's thickness right here)



http://i.imgur.com/oxJ7FT6h.jpg
Just trying the ring on after I feel as though it's symmetrical enough smile.  Looks terrible, but the hard work is really paying off fast.



http://i.imgur.com/QAEVX4Kh.jpg
This is the same as a couple of steps back.  I just slim down everything that I can.  I have a school of thought that I want the thinnest lightest ring that doesn't constrict anything (because it's a thumb protector, not thumb jewelry).  The band has been slimmed down dramatically.  I taper the inside just a bit (very carefully).... a lot like a wedding band is.



http://i.imgur.com/f2iHcq7h.jpg
Flipped it over and finished the inside taper and flair.  This is almost the final fit, so I make sure everything is perfect, because what isn't perfect won't be fixed by 800+ grit sand paper very easily.  This looks very ugly to me, but the ring is actually finished! big_smile  Now I just have to polish it up with 800, 1500, 2000, 4000, 8000, and 12,000 grit sandpaper (though, manicure stuff works great too from my experience, and nail buffing pads are a dollar).



http://i.imgur.com/L90T3Klh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pNdlGlJh.jpg



Well, there you have it.  If you have a rotary tool with a sanding drum attachment, and an hour or two of time, this is how you make a horn thumb ring for a few bucks (the horn still has enough for quite a few more rings, so the 6.99 is for a bunch).  I didn't have a fancy sanding table, grinders, polishing wheels....nothing, so if I can do it anyone can smile.

Also, wear a respirator.  While I don't think horn is a dangerous thing, certain things like bone and antlers ARE EXTREMELY dangerous (they're carcinogenic and also pass on any diseases the animal had if it is un-treated).  I'm that idiot that doesn't use gloves, vices (usually), eye protection....or anything else, but working with animal parts isn't a simple slip and cut your finger, it's respiratory infections, death, diseases...etc.  Also, a proper filter will block the god awful smell.

When you're working on bone, horn, wood, ivory, or synthetics, your fingers will slim down A LOT, and there's a natural powder-based lubricant going on.  I'm saying this because you may think the ring has been bored out too much, but make sure you wash your hands and the ring first before jumping to that conclusion.  This is from my experience though, and my fingers may be unusual...idk.

A special thanks goes out to my water-hose.  I couldn't have done this without a good water-hose model, and it's pretty much the best anyone can ask for.

TargetSlayer wrote:

I do have to admit the Khan developed stress lines more significantly and quicker than, say, a Fred Bear or something, but the price and practicality still make it a no-brainer and superior in my mind by far, to a Western recurve I've known all my life. The stability is obviously even there unless I just have a magic wrist or something... I'm a better shot, not even an equal one, immediately after switching, and I make, own, or have owned countless Western types.

I think the Khan is EXTREMELY sexy, but since their release there's been quite a few faulty ones (seems to usually happen around the grip's lam).  I was actually going to buy one before I went out of my way to find the people talking about theirs messing up and stressing.  Still very pretty though.

While the Hwarang is sleek, and very minimal, it's not the prettiest bow I've ever used- lacking detailed paintings, scribing, and intricate carvings, but what it does have is that minimalism that I live for, and everything on it screams durability and precision.  It's also a very organic bow, and the leather, birch bark....etc have their imperfections, but that's how it goes when you're dealing with bowyers that refuse to utilize vinyl/pleather and printed off wood print.

I actually live in East Texas, and hunting is a significant part of the culture here, and even though I don't hunt myself, I've seen a lot of Fred Bears.... they're tough little guys, and they really last, but they're also three times the weight, and 3/4ths the speed.  With that said, I have used my bow on rogue animals that wouldn't get trapped (I hate hunting, so I'm not proud of this), and the last raccoon I shot didn't even flinch.... I know the arrow penetrated before it could even register the sound of the release.

I too became a SIGNIFICANTLY better shot within the first 200 first shots.  The thumbring and right-sided mount seems to be far superior than anything else I've ever tried, thus I'll never ever go back to western style again.  Before switching, I could hit a cluster with a spread of about 5

bluelake wrote:

Good idea.  Rings (or horn nocks) can be made out of the solid horn tip.

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.j … lInUS%2FNo

They had all different sizes when I went to pick one out.  I ended up getting one that was very thick but hollow, but some were short and solid, some were very thin-walled and huge.  One was about 8" and wasn't hollow at all (I don't know much about horn), and almost got it because I could make a lot of rings out of it, but I wasn't sure if the rings need to be from the tip only.  I cut a blank out yesterday, and am currently trying to decide how I want to make it (this is tough to decide).  I'll reply with my thoughts on it and some pictures of the finished ring.

Also, working with horn is one of the worst smells ever.  I'm having to use a respirator with vicks vapor rub.

Okay, so after looking online and seeing how much blanks cost, I decided to look into alternative routes, such as taxidermy places (fyi, I hate taxidermy), but I found a fantastic source for anyone that makes their own rings.

Petstores sell whole water buffalo horn as "dog chews".  It's unprocessed, uncut...etc, and best of all a full horn is $5.99USD.  I found some at Petsmart and Petco, and I know a lot of you guys aren't from the US, but I would definitely find a huge pet store chain of pet stores and check it out.  I wish I had known about this months ago :\.

Yeah, that's how it is man.  This may sound crazy on my part, but I feel that humans have evolved with a bow in their hand, and primitive bows are what we evolved around... not heavy metal and graphite tiered pulley compounds.  Not to mention, I would rather almost hit a target I can barely see with my instincts than using every piece of high-end high tech gear to hit it perfectly (look up Lars Anderson's Reinventing the Forgotten Arcery....this is inspirational stuff).

Besides all of that, these are the TOUGHEST bows I've ever seen.  I flipped my limbs while stringing my Hwarang bow a couple of weeks ago (with the string nocked), and it acted like nothing happened at all.  I'm sure they're toy-like stature contributes to the toughness of them.  Besides the toughness, and the power, they're INSANELY fast, and I always shoot in amazement (no other style of bow does this for me).   With my Hwarang, the only other bow I will ever possibly want is a Saluki Crimean-Tarter (Just look at this bow <3, but besides that I'm set until my korean bow wears out, gets stolen, or something happens to me.

Also, as someone that's tilled quite a few bows from scratch, I wish you luck on the composites if you ever go that route.... it was that idea that made me stop trying to make bows, because it is definitely one of those skills that is passed on generation by generation by generation.... but I wish you the best of luck, and definitely post pictures of your work.

"Columbarius wrote:

Any advice for those of us who don't have the opportunity to handle a 'professionally made' ring, or be fitted by someone who knows what they're talking about?  It looks plenty easy to make one, especially the Manchu style, but figuring out whether it fits right or whether I just think it does seems like a challenge.

I can't offer advice on "professional made" rings, because I've never bought any.  I guess I figured that I know my thumb better than they do, and I needed to learn from scratch.  If you look back in the thumb ring section you'll find a post by me looking for advice, and the guys here helped me resolve my obstacles (If I had to pick the best thing about the Korean community, it's the very dense amount of great people that want to help).

Make some rings out of cueballs....it sounds like a pain, but it works EXTREMELY fast (I can make one by hand with a dremel in about 30 mins or so...excluding polishing).  When I first started I wanted to get horn, bone, or metal, but all of these would've been a terrible idea as they're expensive materials and I didn't know how to properly make one yet.  My first 4 rings were trashed if that tells you anything, and my 5th and 6th one weren't very good either (but usable); the hardest part about making rings is you know from experience what works and what doesn't.  The rings that I've trashed all looked PERFECT, but they didn't create a good synergy with my lovely bow, and without the synergy it messes up everything out from the foundation of your gear.

The only tip I can offer is to not change the style around a lot, as there's many different origins, and because it isn't comfy doesn't mean it's the style, but rather that you messed up somewhere (this is tedious, but vital for bettering them).  Also, flair out the top part of the ring to distribute the pressure.

Remember, a properly fitted ring will feel good, be as small and as thin as you can make it for how you shoot (no excess/bulk...it's protection not jewelry).  However, I have made on PERFECT ring that, once put on, I can't even feel it, and that doesn't change when I draw back towards the 60lb area (with my draw length).  Reading over tutorials and comments, there was a lot of talk about swelling of your thumb with a good ring, and I assumed there was a certain level of pain involved, but there isn't, and the swelling should be very minimal (like a regular finger ring that you keep messing around with....you know how that makes it swell a little).  Anyway, good luck man, and don't forget to post some pictures of your ring(s) when they're done!

WillScarlet wrote:

That looks REALLY tricky!      yikes

Nah, it'll take about 50 shots before you realize how terrible every other draw method is.  As of now I can't shoot without a ring, and it feels like an extension of me.  I can't stress how vital it is to make your ring perfect for you (and only you).  a couple of millimeters off messes everything up which makes it feel clunky and bad.

43

(3 replies, posted in Bows)

I'm an idiot.  I used my counter top as the "surface," and put the handle on there too.  I didn't take into consideration that the rubber grip may be slightly off-center (by a few millimeters at most).  I just checked it while hanging the grip off of the edge, and it's all perfectly symmetrical.  It may even be the leather grip wrapping adding a a little bit with the overlapping wrap method...idk.  So everything looks surprisingly perfect like nothing happened.  These are definitely tough little bows.  Anyway, thanks for the reply!

Future protip: Always check the loops before stringing.  Lesson learned.  roll

44

(9 replies, posted in Health & Fitness)

Rad, something I specialize in.  I'm one of those fancy tea connoisseurs that lingers over on Steepster, and did a lot of research on green tea due to the huge media coverage last year.  I read tons of research papers that were clinical trials for Catechins, and in a nutshell, you would have to drink 40 cups of green tea a day to get the claimed results (it was around 40...I'm not good with remembering details).  Now, this is a double-edged sword, because out of all of the teas (oolong, white, black, silver needle...etc) green tea is the WORST about causing oxidative stress in large quantities.  If you aren't familiar with oxidative stress, it is the precursor to every single terrible thing your body can have....think Miracle Grow for cancers, Alzheimer's, Parkinson's, SCD...etc.  As a perk about oxidative stress, it DOES prevent the physical aging process, but it seems to do it in a bad way.  Don't let this seem like it's a bad thing though, because this is from extreme and/or long-term consumption.  I wouldn't give it two thoughts when it comes to drinking green tea, but I wouldn't be first in line to dump a cup of matcha on my ice cream everynight.  Obviously all teas promote weight loss via caffeine, but I was never able to trace the roots of the claim that green tea is better at weight loss... in fact it should, in a psychopharmacological way, be the second worst tea to help with that since almost every other tea has significantly higher caffeine content (excluding Rooibo of course since it isn't actually apart of the Camellia family).

Sorry, I may have nerded out a bit, but I find it to be a very fascinating topic in every aspect.  Another fantastic tea that honestly has more beneficial properties is Silver Needle, which is honestly the snobby way to say "the very tip top buds of the white tea plant".  It also has less caffeine in it than even green tea for those that are not drinking it for the caffeinated properties.  My favorite is oolong which is sort of in between black and green if you want the green tea theory with extra caffeine.

Being a high-end tea collector, I have hundreds upon hundreds of tea samples of any orgin you can imagine.... if anyone wants to try anything in particular, just let me know, and I'll send you anything you want to try for free (enough to make a few cups).  I'm always happy to help expand the tea community smile.  EDIT: It's important to mention that I'm not selling any of my teas.

45

(3 replies, posted in Bows)

Hey guys, so I've put about ~2000 shots through my hwarang, and had a question.  First off, let me say why I checked this: I went to string it, and missed one of the pads and the bow flipped with the string :\.  I couldn't believe I had done that, and it happened because my nieces were over for the holiday and it seems they were playing with the string (on my table), and opened up the loop a bit so it threw me off when I strung it.  Okay, enough excuses.

Anyway, I gave it a second to relax, then strung it up again.  Pulled it back once to make sure everything is aligned (it was), and everything looked perfect.  Well, I decided to lay it flat on a table (while strung) and make sure the symmetry was there, and both sides are slightly towards the arrow side.  Keep in mind, this is the OPPOSITE direction that the bow flipped.  There may be a millimeter or so variance between the two ends.  I didn't check this when it arrived to me, so there may have not been any changes at all (shoots amazingly.... at least it did, I haven't tried it since the ordeal yet).

Did I hurt my bow?  Is it normal for it to be tilled this way?  I was under the impression that they only do that for real horn bows.  Anyway, thanks for looking... I guess I'm a little upset about it sad.

46

(4 replies, posted in Bows)

Mellowfellow wrote:

Hello everyone.

I'm interested in buying a kaya kahn for target shooting and fun hobby but I'm a total traditional recurve newbie.

I'm in need of some advice though. I want one which is about 45# (ive just read this is a good medium weight, should I go lighter in this case ?) and my draw length is 28,3" (measured from open extended arms index finger too index finger at about 70"/2.5 from this article http://www.huntersfriend.com/bow_sizing … uide.html)
This could already be a wrong start since this is not a compound but a traditional recurve ?

Ive read that in some cases the bow need's a little work to get it 100% tip top.. Things like smoothing the bow tips, adding padding where the strings "rest" on the tips on the back, and adding a patch of leather for the arrow rest.
Is this the standard ? Which glue should one use on this beauty ?

For arrows could I use lightspeed 500 carbon arrows ? Or is this the wrong move and should I get cheaper arrows, wood arrows, better arrows ? I'm ordering from ArcheryTorgue and they have a selection of bamboo and Carbon Pro carbon arrows. Can anyone recommend their arrow setups for target shooting ? Do the arrows need to be longer than normal ?

Then I guess lastly there is the release, does one use a tab or glove ?

O and do I use a stringer to get the string on or not ?

I realise I'm really going ape with all my questions,  tongue please forgive me! I value your sensible advice

MF


I recently got into Korean archery, and came from an extensive background in self bows and recurves.  Instead of trying to convince you why they're good, I'm first going to say that my Korean bow is unlike anything I've ever shot....absolutely my favorite bow, and possibly one of my favorite possessions.  Even though I bought the "hwarang" model, I still did some very small out of box stuff to it like going over the seams, working on the backing...etc; it was fantastic out of the box, but no matter how good a bow is it still likes those last minute touchups.... No matter the cost if the bow, the origin, the quality, it'll need your last personal touches to complete it as yours, or at least that's how I feel.

I use carbon arrows, and it casts like no bow I've ever seen.  I'm not one of those spine gurus, but these bows seem to handle all kinds of arrows.

I, and most others here use thumbrings.  Thumbrings are new to me, and have shot three fingered for since a young age, but I have far surpassed my previous accurate and speed by adding a thumbring into it (more consistency).  If you refuse to go the Asiatic shooting methods, and stay with three fingers, you'll quickly realize that smaller bows are significantly less forgiving of form, or at least they are to me (not just Korean bows).

I noticed you asked about a leather shelf.  Don't.  The first time I shot from my hand on the right side I figured it would become a steep learning curve, but western form is extremely clumsy, inefficient, and twice the time between shots.  I wish I were joking, about this, but it is really that much of a difference.  One important thing to note is slight twist of the bow (away from the arrow), and it prevents typical problems found in western shoot I g (archers kiss, vein deflection....etc).

Everyone already left you some good responses, but I was recently in similar shoes so I felt that I should comment.  Good luck!

47

(9 replies, posted in Accessories)

WarBow wrote:

That looks gorgeous and economical  big_smile !

Thanks!  I realized that the felt looks like it's hanging past the edges in the photo.... They are actually perfectly flush, but I got the "felt blankets" from Lowes, and the cushioning is crazy thick (some sort of light play going on).  I may take a proper photo of them in a day or two.

I think it'd be easy to modify the hooks for arrows (maybe grooves or holes).  I am going to stain and wax a dowel and have it protruding one of the sides for my thumbring.  I still have to figure out a better string solution though hmm....anyone have any ideas for string storage?

48

(9 replies, posted in Accessories)

I've been looking for a way to keep my new (and favorite) bow safe, and I came up with an EXTREMELY inexpensive solution that looks better than any other bow rack I've seen.  Essentially, I found some wooden curtain rod holders at Lowes for $7.99 (pair), then some felt to line the inside ($2.99).  Anyway, I just thought I'd share.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tzCveBLzfyM/UmwmzzmOSuI/AAAAAAAAAPo/GsHnzBkth5U/w440-h330-p/IMAG0202.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PBDihjVq7kM/UmwmyAUSFxI/AAAAAAAAAPg/_WXOx5iuJIY/w440-h330-p/IMAG0201.jpg

49

(9 replies, posted in Thumb Rings)

Hey guys, just a follow up on the problem in case anyone else searches about this.  The leather on the back was extremely successful, but since I'm making the rings I wanted to understand the physical attributes for comfort.  I came up with this ring (after a few more trials and errors).  Essentially, the comfort increased from the wider band around the thumb, a "contour" on the back of the band (for release comfort; bottom picture on the bottom of the band), and most significantly, I made the inside diameter slightly smaller and also rounded the inside shank (like a wedding band).  This forces it to seat slightly lower on the digit.  I have fat thumbs, but in draw the string part of the ring is exactly the same length as my thumb, so the string can't touch my skin  (the pictures make it look short...camera adds 20 lbs).  I shot about ~150 arrows from it with absolute no pain except some minor rubbing (I have soft mooshy IT nerd hands :\)  Critique it if you guys see something I could improve on.

Also this would be nothing without pictures, so here it is! big_smile

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Il6M_Qc7L-w/UmYBuvX_Y1I/AAAAAAAAAOo/--kW6KITT0c/w440-h330-p/IMAG0188.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8yigxesQUtg/UmYBweLO9pI/AAAAAAAAAOw/Dxh7yUKCuJI/w440-h330-p/IMAG0189.jpg

50

(33 replies, posted in Bows)

a1111318 wrote:

I also can show the email reply from thelongbowshop.com in UK.

From The Longbow Shop 2013/8/30


Hi Peter

Does the bow shoot straight? Sometimes the tillering is off but the bow shoots straight. If there is a problem with the bow you will need to send it back to us so I can send it back to the distributor in Europe. You will have to pay for return shipping both ways. I have a slight string misalignment on my KTB but it shoots just fine and has done for 2 years now. These are entry level bows and as such sometimes they have little things that aren't perfect.

Let me know how it shoots

Jason

As they said, this bow is all right if it shoots straight. I also worry about the limb torque  during shooting. It will hurt myself or some other person.

As the emails said, if they swap, they let me pay the deliver fee for both way. As any person knows, this deliver cost will be more then the cost of the bow itself. I am so upset for this after service.

I also attach the image for this limb. It can be fixed or It is no problem.

Part 1.2 of their return policy SPECIFICALLY states that they're required to pay the shipping costs for faulty items within their 28 day warranty period.  I'm not sure if it is in warranty period, but if it is out of the 28 days it would make sense why you have to pay the shipping.  Honestly, if it's after the 28 day period, then you're really lucky that they're willing to help at all.  I'm curious as to how this will play out.

Also, as a sales person, I would never claim that something a customer just purchased is "entry level" and full of "flaws".  I suppose different companies act differently, though.  I bet if you were to ask them what they thought a professional or mid-end bow would be, they'd respond with something like "Grozer".