1

(1 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

I can create some tanged heads for you by grinding some screw-in heads that I have.

2

(6 replies, posted in Accessories)

Did you make those arrows?

3

(2 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

Hello all.

I bought a Hwarang bow secondhand. It is beautiful and barely has any wear and tear. It is 55# @ 28". It does not draw as long as I thought it would, and considering I was expecting an easy 33" draw I was wrong. It is made for a shorter person who draws around 31" or less.

I am looking to trade this bow for any other bow of equal or similar poundage but with a guaranteed LONG drawlength. I am almost 6'3" so I cannot deal with a 31 inch drawlength if I want to pull to my ear. I suspect that this Hwarang bow is of normal length therefore it doesn't fit me since I am above normal in body dimensions.

Or, I will sell it for the amount that I paid for it since I haven't shot it yet--only just pulled it back. I will ask for $299 plus shipping.

What is the bow length?

5

(3 replies, posted in Bows)

geoarcher wrote:

I think I can address two of your questions/concerns.

1) concerning drawing the bow:  I don't know which one you got but if you are a rather long limbed fellow and purchased the standard size YMG (49 inches), then the bow may not be right for you in that sense. 

I am rather long limbed and found that in order to draw comfortably a Korean bow to my preferred 32 inch length I require jangjung or one that is say 50 or 51 inches in length.  All of the Korean bows that I had that were at least 50 inches in length I felt totally comfortable with drawing back that far.  The standard or 49 inch YMG that I once had felt awkward to pull back far similar to what it sounds like with you.

Of course strength training may indeed be more the issue here especially if you typically shoot at a lighter draw weight.

2) concerning arrows: carbon SMGs are probably the best.  They're well fletched and feature rather sturdy shafts and nocks.  They are also pretty good price wise.


I am almost 6'3" so yes I am long limbed. From tip to tip unstrung it is 44" if you measured a straight line from the two nocks of the bow. Would this possibly be the standard YMG?

And where could an American get those arrows?

6

(3 replies, posted in Bows)

So I received my secondhand Hwarang Bow from a seller from this website...

It is 55# @28 in. Do these bows draw to 33"? Because I cannot get it past my Saracen drawlength (around 31)...perhaps I am a lil weak! haha.

Anyways, any comments about things I should look for? How should I keep the brace height if the string untwists over time? What methods to prolong livelihood of the bow? And what arrows do yall suggest for it?

It is in my opinion a mighty bow and it almost scares me to pull it back. It is my first heavier bow over 55. I will use it along my Tatar bow to increase in strength.

Thanks all for your tips/comments.

LMC

7

(6 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

wow that's great...if I were a tad stronger I would get it in a heartbeat.

8

(6 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

Max draw length? And if I may what is your reason for selling it?

9

(15 replies, posted in Thumb Rings)

I really like the lip as opposed to the dip because it allows for fasting nocking and shooting. The dip gets in the way in horsearchery because if you nock quickly the string may slip off of it if you draw too quickly.

10

(7 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

JamesLow wrote:
NsTLjK wrote:
lcooper wrote:

Are you still selling or no?

Yes absolutely you can contact me by email at www.iehl@gmail.com


Email sent. No reply as of yet!

I bought the bow from him; but he never sent me a tracking number and won't return my emails. He said he is joining the army and he's French, but so I cannot be sure whether he actually sent the bow or not...I should talk to paypal I guess. I bought it on March 31.

misterwonky wrote:

Yeah, that's how it is man.  This may sound crazy on my part, but I feel that humans have evolved with a bow in their hand, and primitive bows are what we evolved around... not heavy metal and graphite tiered pulley compounds.  Not to mention, I would rather almost hit a target I can barely see with my instincts than using every piece of high-end high tech gear to hit it perfectly (look up Lars Anderson's Reinventing the Forgotten Arcery....this is inspirational stuff).

Besides all of that, these are the TOUGHEST bows I've ever seen.  I flipped my limbs while stringing my Hwarang bow a couple of weeks ago (with the string nocked), and it acted like nothing happened at all.  I'm sure they're toy-like stature contributes to the toughness of them.  Besides the toughness, and the power, they're INSANELY fast, and I always shoot in amazement (no other style of bow does this for me).   With my Hwarang, the only other bow I will ever possibly want is a Saluki Crimean-Tarter (Just look at this bow <3, but besides that I'm set until my korean bow wears out, gets stolen, or something happens to me.

Also, as someone that's tilled quite a few bows from scratch, I wish you luck on the composites if you ever go that route.... it was that idea that made me stop trying to make bows, because it is definitely one of those skills that is passed on generation by generation by generation.... but I wish you the best of luck, and definitely post pictures of your work.


I have a Crimean Tatar Hybrid. Check out my Youtube video online, all you have to do is type in saluki Crimean tatar on youtube and you'll see it.
It is amazing!

-Lucas

12

(0 replies, posted in Buy/Sell/Trade)

Hello all.
I would like to sell 4 of the dozen bamboo arrows that I have created. They are spined for 35-40# bow, but as we know, bamboos are hardy and with a proper thumbring technique, one can use a variation of spines for different poundages. (2 of my best arrows from my dozen shoot like carbon). They're nearly perfectly straight, but they are made of mountain bamboo thus the nodes swell a bit around the node (though they are thoroughly sanded) and therefore are not perfectly parallel like Korean/Japanese shafts. But, this species of arrow is more dense and therefore will not "pop" in half as easily.

To help me keep my arrow making practice going and to help me start up my business, I would like to sell these four arrows as prototypes. The cost will reflect this, and for all the countless hours I've spent on these arrows, I will sell them for $30 per arrow to a total of $120, plus shipping. They are matched within .4 grams, have bi-colored goose feathers at around 4 inches long, three fletch (cock feather up), and are painted. They have horn nocks (EXTREMELY HARDY, I have tried to break these nocks by shooting at broken arrows and they are sinew reinforced and will not budge). They have 65 grain points that I shaped myself into tanged arrowpoints and that is also sinew reinforced. 3 of the four have similar first node placements (as the Koreans do), 2 of which are identical in node placement. (my future arrows will be all perfectly matched by the first node...one reason why it is priced as a prototype). PM me or ask me for my email.

Check 'em out on my arrow page: (arrows for sale are named Red Tiger arrows)
https://plus.google.com/u/1/b/106572037 … 6516/posts

tonygt19 wrote:

You have one of only two types of bows that I know of that can be drawn and flexed in 3 dimensions to make the perfect shot. The Japanese Yumi is one and the Korean traditional bow is the other. If you pursue this, once it happens you will be hooked but you may have to shoot a thousand times before it happens again.

I understand what you mean about the twist of the bowhand, but what do you mean by 3 dimensions?

14

(13 replies, posted in Arrows)

Mule, did you do cherry bark next to your nock with black sinew next to the feathers? What kind of nock is that? I also (on that ATARN thread) am posting some updated pics of my arrows smile

15

(13 replies, posted in Arrows)

I think it does matter since it's all about what you shoot best with.

For me, around one little finger breadth in height and 3-6 pointer finger breadths in length is what I use for fletching.

3 fletch is good. 4 is better. But try to keep the 4 no more than 4 inches long and low since they have more drag. I made some bamboo arrows Mughal style with the cock up configuration and the 2 of the batch that survived my shooting trials (which shoot better than carbon) shoot like a dream and I feel as though the cock up feather and the 'X' 4 fletch configurations are best since they typically don't have a feather that goes against your hand. But with a good release you barely ever feel the feather. Also, my feathers are almost on top of the nock. I know Korean arrows have the fletching around an inch or so after the nock but personally I think the closer to the nock the better. It stabilizes the arrow much more quickly.

Stick with primary wing feathers since they last longer, and the other side of the quill (the leeward feather I believe) has a weaker feather but it sometimes can be used to make Japanese style arrows since they are easy to strip off the quill and are naturally low  smile .

I experimented a lot recently with making arrows and I have found that next to the straightness of the arrow, the feathers are the most important aspect to consider. Because with thumbring archery you can get away with shooting a variety of spines.

16

(30 replies, posted in Arrows)

Anyone know of where to get pieces of hardwood to make hardwood nocks? Like dogwood or holly?

17

(5 replies, posted in Bows)

Question, Thomas.
I thought that hornbows start manifesting their inherent efficiency at 70# and up?

Or is that the case for other hornbow styles, or a myth?

18

(2 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

That's something about archery; it preserves landscape because of its minimally destructive nature smile

19

(30 replies, posted in Arrows)

And by the way geoarcher, I do not really find much need for implanting any plugs into the point side, unless to help balance the arrow, since I use "screwin" points which function as tanged points and insert them into the shaft.

20

(30 replies, posted in Arrows)

No I mean using bamboo shaft pieces as plugs for the nocks. I figured it would be more economical than using hardwood plugs and also I figured that using a plug of any kind would be better than filing the shaft itself for the nock, which would compromise its integrity.

That's what I meant, sorry for any confusion, if any.

21

(30 replies, posted in Arrows)

Has anyone done inserted bamboo nocks for their bamboo arrows? In other words, small pieces of bamboo shafting is inserted and then shaped into a nock.

22

(2 replies, posted in New Member Introductions)

After seeing Dusan's post, I realized I had never introduced myself, how rude of me. I apologize.

Most important thing that tells about an archer's personality: his bow. I have a Saluki Crimean Tatar Hybrid bow and it is my love. I have a Hwarang bow coming in the mail from France soon so I shall see how that shoots.

My name is Lucas Cooper, I live in Palm Beach, Florida, and I am becoming an English Teacher. (Don't judge me on my grammar, I am too lazy to write perfectly all the time). Not much of an archery community around here. Let alone traditional archery, especially ASIAN traditional archery or MOUNTED archery.

I am friends with Lukas Novotny and he has recently moved into the state and I have visited him several times. He has taught me some of the essentials of horseback archery and I have tried to perfect my horsemanship and archery skills in order to become a great horsearcher one day.

I am a history-enthusiast and love to read and learn whatever I can that interests me, especially about the utility, function, and uses of composite bows and of arrows in antiquity. Korean, Indo-Persian, and Mongol/Tatar bows are extremely interesting to me. (I am sick of all the Ottoman bow fanaticism, and I feel other treasures can be found in other, less-looked-into cultures).

All are free to contact me whenever if you should like to talk about bows, arrows, or whatnot. I also am becoming a bamboo arrow maker since I find them addictive to make. (My design is based off of some Mughal conformations and designs as opposed to Japanese or Korean designs.)

I hope to learn and appreciate as much as possible from this website, especially since it endorses one of the few nations on earth that have held their archery traditions still close to heart. (I wish archery were "golf" to America as archery is to Korea.)

23

(8 replies, posted in Health & Fitness)

I can attest to the cardiovascular benefits of yoga...it is very hard depending on which kind you are doing.

Weight lifting also helps give a bump to your abilities in all other sports, and also boosts your confidence sky high.

Running is also something that changes your whole body composition and also helps you enjoy the outside world:)

24

(9 replies, posted in Health & Fitness)

I am a tea connoisseur as well, and I have been able to go to the Temple of Heaven's Teahouse in China and pick up some of their Oolong tea smile.

I think the biggest reason that Chinese people have tea, besides culture, is because they have to BOIL ALL THEIR WATER or else they will get sick. So, might as well have a hot cup of tea if all your sanitized water is hot! hahah!

(I had to boil water for everything, to brush my teeth, to wash my face, everything.....) Most Chinese people are used to the poor water so they don't get as much stomach trouble as an American would.

25

(8 replies, posted in Technique)

Kublaicarl wrote:

The only difference when shooting with the arrow on the left hand side of the bow to me is the forefinger that goes over your thumb.  With the arrow on the right hand side the forefinger can be used to hold the arrow onto the bow so the bow can be canted without the arrow falling away from the bow.  If you put too much pressure on the arrow with your forefinger when shooting from the left hand side, you will push the arrow away from the bow ruining the shot.  If you draw smoothly, without twisting the string then there isn't a problem.
It is interesting that some Mongol archers shoot this way, does anyone have any information as to why they should do this when the majority of Asiatic archers follow the convention of arrows on the Right hand side of the bow?


Probably ignorance. Their bows are not nearly as what Mongolian bows used to be, the current bows made there are clunky Manchurian bows with short ears (which defeats the purpose of the design). So it makes sense they also don't keep to tradition by shooting thumbrings as they used to.