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Hey everyone,
I am wondering what you guys think of the Korean archery stance the oblique stance vs parallel stance used by other cultures in regards to war weight bows so 80# and up.
I am specifically wondering in regards to the shoulder technique and lean demonstrated by Justin Ma (I will link the video later) and how it is applied to the Korean stance. I feel as though settling your shoulder before the draw does not feel natural like it does with a parallel stance. Maybe I am missing something or am not rotating as much when fully drawn.
Would the Korean stance have been different back when military weights where more common? Is the new form method a more recent change?
Does anyone have experience shooting warbow weights with the oblique stance?
Just want to facilitate some discussion on the topic.
I have not had any experience with SMG bows myself but your friend who also owns one does he have the same problem as you? Do you do any sort of Khatra or have changed any of your form? I think it may be possible that some movements can encourage a strong to jump off the bow.
Anyway hopefully someone else has more information for you. Best of luck.
bluelake wrote:wayfarer wrote:Hey everyone, I am wondering if anyone knows where one could read or have access to historic reports of Korean archery in war or anything else about their bows, be it from Korea itself or opposing countries.
It is just something I would be interested in seeing or reading. I have only seen that which was posted on Peter Dekkers website showing what Korean's where stating about Manchu bows.
Thank you!
I have seen a smattering of things on the Annals of the Joseon Kings, but nothing substantial.
Thank you for the reply Thomas,
It is unfortunate that there are not much writings on such matters because it would have been nice to see.
Have you done anymore experimenting with this style of ring? I have been using mine for sometime but I havn't been able to shoot as much as I like and my Sugakji's have been hard on my thumb (usually a cycle of getting calluses then not being able to shoot and having to get them again). I wonder how exactly the ring should fit, I have experimented them but I can't get a way to shoot without pain and its bothering me because I like this style of ring so much.
CTR wrote:wayfarer wrote:It looks beautiful! And that is some clean wrapping on those feathers. Thank you for creating a repair post for your bow and documenting it. My KTB is starting to wear out pretty bad.
I saw on your blog you have the JZW Manchu bow, how do you guys like the Manchu bow compared to the Korean bow?
You're very welcome.
As for the Manchu vs. Korean..... my two birch bark backed Korean bows are still my favorites with the JZW coming in third, but the reasons why are more complicated. For one thing, I like faster arrows with flatter trajectories. On occasion I shoot at 200 yards even. You just don't do that with a Manchu bow. I love the compact size. They're easy to transport, easy to shoot from a variety of positions, easy to move around your house without bumping into things, and easy to shoot indoors without worrying about clipping a light or similar. And finally, backed in real birch bark and with a black radiused belly, they're about as close to a real hornbow as you can get without the maintenance headache. I certainly like the JZW Manchu more than any of my other Korean bows though.
At the end of the day, it is important to understand though that they're not really "competing" because they don't really do the same thing. Shooting a 1200 grain arrow at 150fps isn't in even the same league as a 500 grain arrow at 220FPS. They're the two opposite extremes on the spectrum, so you just get different giggles from each.
What I want to do now is get my hands on a Mughal style bow. There is a lot of big talk coming from the Manchu corner about highest early draw weight, highest energy stored, best at launching heavy arrows, etc. Strikes me though that the Mughal crab bows have comparably sized siyahs and even more extreme reflex, but do the work with shorter bending limbs..... and historically they also fought fairly wealthy and heavily armored enemies. I've also never seen a real test of such a bow. So I'd like to take one through its paces and just see. I suspect shorter draw length will mean it, ultimately, can't store as much energy but even still.
I see thank you for the in depth reply. I know the two bows are designed with different goals in mind and would like to see what type of damage a real Manchu arrow could do (the thought of such heavy arrows is interesting). I would also like to see a Hwarang or similar bow at 80# or more shot with a short arrow to record fps and how far it has a flat trajectory.
I think your points in favor for the Korean style bow are what initially drew me to them and I personally can't wait to someday get another one wrapped in birch bark after my KTB wears out or I want to bump up passed 55#. The small size and just how it the bows look drawn are beautiful.
The Mughal bows look interesting! I have seen the crab bow before online but didn't know they where that well at shooting heavy arrows, although it makes sense due to the size of the siyahs. I wonder how long the draw length was on those bows.
It looks beautiful! And that is some clean wrapping on those feathers. Thank you for creating a repair post for your bow and documenting it. My KTB is starting to wear out pretty bad.
I saw on your blog you have the JZW Manchu bow, how do you guys like the Manchu bow compared to the Korean bow?
Hey everyone, I am wondering if anyone knows where one could read or have access to historic reports of Korean archery in war or anything else about their bows, be it from Korea itself or opposing countries.
It is just something I would be interested in seeing or reading. I have only seen that which was posted on Peter Dekkers website showing what Korean's where stating about Manchu bows.
Thank you!
If that is legit the YMG then damn I wish I saw that deal before I got my Kaya KTB last year. Shame that one only goes to 60lbs. But, its all good I do love my KTB if it ever fails I will get one of these.
Pedro I know you already have made some strings and seem to be doing good with the technique, I myself won't be able to try until the end of December. But anyway, check this video out that I found its pretty good, and it actually shows the initial steps which the other two videos don't show.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6w_cOlDlEes
Pedro C wrote:d97 gold string (10 strands, 14 strand loops) with diamondback serving.
Twisted counter-clockwise. Right handed shooter. I like the gold..
That gold string looks great I may have to invest in that color since I have yet to decide which I would get.
Well thanks for the write up.
This video seems that it could also be helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwq8Rs2ukig
I am sure it will be trial and error but if its working now that is good atleast.
Thanks for the post I think someday I will give it a try and sorry I wouldn't know but from reading the quoted section it seems a lot of twisting is required. It will probably be just trial and error. Did you make one and try it out?
What bow string type would be best to use? This would be my first time attempting to make a string.
Yea that videos method looks good too. I do like the crossleg sitting down the most though, it feels more stable to me and I will continue doing it myself. Thanks for posting all those videos they may be helpful to some since so many methods.
I personally use the cross leg sitting method but I am not sure if I do it perfectly. I believe that is the best method atleast for me if I am alone. One way you can string a bow if you have an additional individual with you to help is to sit down and put the bow across both of your knees (with one side of string already on) and the other person holds the other side of the string. Then you pull both limbs back while holding the one side of the string thats already on in place and the other person slides the other side on. I forgot where I learned the method maybe on one of the horn bow websites from a seller (maybe saluki website). But, that is a good safe to not twist limbs if you got the help.
Hey sorry for the super late reply, but I would say I do get a decently clean release I notice no major difference in how I was shooting when compared to the other style ring. Only that it is much easier for me to draw and hold the bow at full draw. There are some other shaped sugakji rings if you look them up that may be even better.
I wouldn't doubt that they used such wood bows, I am sure that many couldn't afford to get full horn bows (I may be wrong though just assuming).
Good luck on the ring Pedro if you decide to make one. I still use mine whenever I go shooting, no complaints, I don't see myself using any other style of ring besides a Sugakji at this point.
Hey Kulden welcome to the forum. hopefully you can find some useful information here I know I did.
basilisk120 wrote:I did the vet wrap bit because we had some around the house and it works well. Gets a bit dirty looking but other than that does what it is supposed to do.
Sounds good, the original grip got dirty pretty quick. I got about 5 yards of wrap for 4 bucks so I can always replace it once in a while when it gets to warn out which is good.
I bought some vet wrap, I am going to replace my kaya ktb cover since it was dirty and I have wanted to try to reshape the handle since its quite large. Hopefully it all works out.
davidggalanty wrote:38' bamboo arrow identify and how to sell
and the file is t large to upload
can someone help
Are you trying to upload a photo?? if so maybe try to upload those photos to photobucket or a similar program and resize it and then use the links provided (on the rightside on photobucket) to post it. the img option on this forum the mountain/sun picture next to paint brush allows you to paste the url link next to it and it should show up.
I can feel a large difference in how long I can hold the bow fully drawn without shaking with the parallel stance.. Gotta build up more strength for Korean stance to be as comfortable as parallel.
storm wrote:I had a samick skb which had a crack above the handle. I glued it, wrapped and didn't have a problem since. A friend had a delamination at the same spot. The wrapping is done where the bow is most likely to delaminate due to high stress. I've also seen some korean bows with the wrapping done more as a decoration. Probably at 30# it's not needed, but for stronger bows it is better to have it. The wrapping has to be tight and helps to enforce the critical areas.
The windfighter bows come without the wrapping. In our group, when somebody got a new bow, that was the first thing we did to the bow.
An example of a very strong bow which has the same wrappings:
http://atarn.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2486
I see that is what I was assuming the purpose might have been. That linked bow has massive poundage! Its good to hear that you had success with gluing and wrapping the crack on the bow. I decided to wrap my bow a little bit mostly for decoration and maybe it will help with potential stress.
morton509 wrote:I've always wondered about the wrapped limbs. Some people wrap around the tip and string. It seems that you wouldn't unstring your bow very often with it wrapped like that. I loved the link you put up. Gave me a bit of an idea what it might be like to shoot in Korea. Thanks
Yea its interesting to see how shooting is like over there the photos of ranges I have seen are beautiful.
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