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First, check very carefully where your thumb fingernail sits on the pointer finger when you draw. Also, make sure you close the thumb fully (90 degrees) and position it so that the pointer finger sits on it squarely. If the thumb is not fully closed, it will put pressure exactly where you have the problem. The middle of the pointer finger should sit over the base of the thumb nail. However, bare in mind that everybody is different, and you must find a position that works for you.

In my opinion you are applying too much pressure with it over the thumb. Your thumb should be strong enough to hold the string on its own, with only light pressure from the pointer.

These bows are very flexible and allow you to draw them in more ways. This is not a modern target bow, drawing technique matters. You are putting too much pressure at the bottom of the grip. Keep a high wrist, olympic style, and bow balance will improve. You'll notice your accuracy improve too.

Depends what you want to penetrate: thin fast arrows for armor and heavy arrows for game/flesh.

Super glue no. You could use some epoxy made for bows and then wrap it tightly around the whole area. Still, I would say it's not worth the bother and the risk.

I had a samick skb which had a crack above the handle. I glued it, wrapped and didn't have a problem since. A friend had a delamination at the same spot. The wrapping is done where the bow is most likely to delaminate due to high stress. I've also seen some korean bows with the wrapping done more as a decoration. Probably at 30# it's not needed, but for stronger bows it is better to have it. The wrapping has to be tight and helps to enforce the critical areas.

The windfighter bows come without the wrapping. In our group, when somebody got a new bow, that was the first thing we did to the bow.

An example of a very strong bow which has the same wrappings:
http://atarn.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2486

The idea is to make the arrow act like shot from a center shot bow, but torque might need to change slightly depending on arrow spine and weight. If you change the arrows, you can actively adjust the torque, but I've found that your brain does that automatically after a dozen shots. Try to shoot something like a 500 and a 300 spine arrow and check the differences with your bow and your technique.

If you mix arrows in a shooting session, or even shooting without looking which arrow you've picked up, stick with your default form. You will not be able to compensate for each arrow. The overall accuracy will drop, but you can experiment with different techniques (more or less torque, forward push, release types, anchors etc ) and find which technique is less affected by differences in spine.

If ultimate precision is your goal, then you might be better off with the western style of finding a fixed anchor,  relaxing the bow hand, tuning the arrows perfectly to the bow and choosing a reliable aiming technique like gap. Or practice day and night and shoot instinctively.

Thank you!

Yes, it becomes stiffer, but because it is strung, I expected it to lose the reflex and "set" in the strung form, thus losing draw weight.

If it just becomes stronger, it could be warmed a bit by pre-drawing it a few times. I've also seen stories on wooden bows, especially yew, that can break if shot cold.

Pressure at the bottom of the handle? In, my experience with SMG bows, they like pressure on the top of the handle, and the forward rotation. My first bow has frustrated me for one year until I discovered that it likes that. It is a lot more accurate when I do the forward rotation and likes to remind me if I don't do it  . The other bows are not that sensitive, but with forward rotation they shoot better. You'll have to find the balance point of you bow.

I do the forward rotation only be wrist tension, by keeping the wrist as level (or straight) as possible. This increases the draw length a bit and puts more force on the top limb. It also prevents the arrow nock from hitting your thumb, so you can get away with a lower nock position.

Regarding relaxing the bow hand, I would not recommend it. First, the grip is not designed for that. Look at compound and recurve bow grips - they are designed for a relaxed grip, but in order to be relaxed, it has to be straight. Then, if you decide to relax the bow hand, then you would have to match the arrow spine more carefully. 

Remember the teachings from Saracen Archery: "strong in both fists". I would say the bow hand is even more important than the draw hand. Never allow your bow to overpower your bow hand, because then you will be inaccurate. You are shooting the bow, not just drawing it.

All my SMG bows came with a blue foam grip (well, one was black) and the rubber strips. For 2 years I refused to use the rubber strips because I found them uncomfortable. I tried tennis grips, and different types of leather.  But, when I had to shoot in the rain for a day I realized that grip is important. Now I use only those grips and really like them.

The rubber stripes are usually about 1 to 1.5cm wide. If the strip is wider, then look careful on the back side, as it was precut and you can just pull it apart. In the photo above there are 3 black ones for example - you can clearly see the lines. One strip is enough for one grip. I use super glue to glue it.

The foam grip can be shaped with a knife. Cut it a bit smaller, so that with the grip wrap applied, it fits your hand. If you cut too much, you could always find some harder rubber piece to glue back. With the wrap on, when you grip the bow, you should have about one finger width space between the tips of your 3 lower fingers and the base of your palm. To test the wrap, apply glue just at the ends of the strip. If you're happy, undo one end, unwrap and then re-wrap by applying glue all the way.

If you want to use natural materials, you could try stingray skin.

For handle shape, I prefer the back side of the bow in the middle and the belly side of the bottom one in the picture below:

For gripping techniques, look here:
http://www.koreanarchery.org/punbb/viewtopic.php?id=231

You don't need extra protein. I also had this pain, because of bad form. After some time, it went away, with good form.

Your alignment is good, body position looks good too. Draw length is perfect, forearm in line with the arrow.
But:
- Bow arm elbow needs to be pointing to your left, not down. I tried to rotate my elbow to point down, and just by leaning against the wall and flexing the arm (doing "horizontal push ups" ) I can feel pain in the shoulder and I normally have no issue with the shoulder.

One more tip: Your arms still looks a bit stiff. Right hand remains still after the release, even comes forward a bit before going back. You can see this well at 0:21. It's a very fast but small creep, because the arm relaxes before the finger opens. You are holding the bow at full draw instead of maintaining the push-pull action. Keep pulling, ever so slightly, and start relaxing the thumb and the string should slip. While doing this, keep pulling. It should feel like the string slipped, not like you are letting it go. Like you are pulling a string and somebody lets go on the other side. The right hand goes flying backwards. This takes practice though, but try not to stop pulling, and the rest will come naturally.